letuffeau.com
(Link)
~ “The palate is beautifully pure, showing a supple and low-level sweetness for a moelleux, with an interesting lightly bitter grip giving it some backbone. The acidity is vibrant, and the wine communicates brilliantly the great purity of the 2002 vintage, an impression reinforced by the wine’s long, pithy-fruit finish. This is a very appealing wine, slightly old-school in style, but it has interest too. … It is fine for drinking now, but I suspect with the structure this wine possesses it will go forward in the cellar for many years yet.” ~
Chris Kissack, thewinedoctor.com
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Jean-Pierre Boistard
Vouvray
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“This is one of those wine fairy tales. Well, not quite on par with Stalin’s Cellar … but pretty good.
Vincet Careme, one of the most recently renowned and recently hyped winemakers in the whole Loire, purchased a handful of vineyards from one Jean-Pierre Boistard. The latter gentleman is lost now to the sands of time, and with him go the secrets of his winemaking.
The contract of sale included more than just land … there was a cellar, a treasure trove of ancient bottles, chucked in for good measure. These wines have now been scattered to the wind however a parcel has made their way to Australia of late.
Below are two Chenin Blancs. A tendre from 2001 (ever-so-slightly off-dry), and a moelleux (sweet) from 2002, that simply defy age and their humble price point. I cannot stress enough that these are simply glorious drinking; with or without the rillettes to match the tendre, or crottins with the moelleux.
I have had numerous older bottles from the big names; Moulin-Touchais Coteaux du Layon and Bredif Grande Annee. These wines are priced fractionally and offer equal pleasure.
The 2001 Vouvray Tendre is presently by the glass at Le Tuffeau. I challenge any of you, Readers, who do not believe my claims that these a wines are simply glorious drinking to come by, sample a glass, and leave without a smile on your face and a bottle (or two!) in your hand.
As above: simply glorious drinking. For every serious wine lover to enjoy.”
— David
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~ please note : discounts are automatically applied at the digital check-out! ~
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Jean-Pierre Boistard 2001 Vouvray Tendre
limited
(Shelf Price: $85.00)
Offer: $68.00
Vinous.com reports that 2001 is an 83/100 vintage with the wines “mostly in decline or past prime”. Anyone who samples the below, which I strongly urge you readers to do, will see that this is resolutely not the case for this Vouvray. It simply beggars belief; must be tried to be believed.
“This nearly-sec Vouvray from the now defunct domaine of Jean-Pierre Boistard brims with vibrant charm as it enters its 25th year. There is a distinct backwardness upon opening, which one could almost mistake for reduction. With aeration fresh green apples and ripe quince jostle with yellow cooking apples and honeysuckle, complemented by pleasing trim of ginger together with candied pineapple and citrus peel. Also present are faint cooked mandarin peel, tarragon (I think of the Marmalade at the Queensberry Street Co-op), and deep mineral notions. There are suggestions of age in the form of a gentle patina of crumbled earth, mycelium, and sliced white mushroom. The lush palate is simply splendid: an array of fruits from across the spectrum - crisp green apple, yellow peach, passionfruit, and a rich, sweet edge of cooked-down citrus peel, all tidied up by a lightning bolt of acidity which simply defies the bottle age. This wonderful package concludes with a very long finish, pleasingly bitter
and saline. Simply glorious.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
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(Link) I
Jean-Pierre Boistard 2002 Vouvray Moelleux
limited
(Shelf Price: $109.00)
Offer: $85.00
Vinous.com reports that 2002 is a 96/100 vintage and is only equalled by ‘96 and only surpassed by ‘88 (97) in living memory. As noted above, with a wine from a traditionally held ‘inferior’ vintage, this wine from a superior vintage should be tried to be believed!
“Pouring a deeper mid gold with still present green highlights, this Moelleux soars from the glass with aromas of fresh, dew flecked peaches, candied citrus rind, lemongrass, and hints of stem ginger. There is a wonderful sense of aromatic depth here. The palate is fresh, almost surging, but with wonderfully integrated acidity. Overall, the perception is one of the ‘round’ palate, as the French say. The flavours present in array, carried by acidity and still youthful minerality; complimented and complexified by pleasing spiciness, bitterness, and a long fresh finish. Fresh: peach, tarragon, candied citrus, hints of petrichor and store; Complex and spicy: dried peach, anise, bitter pomelo pith and pear skin, preserved ginger. The fullness coupled with channelling acidity on the close, and again repeating gastronomic bitterness, is a marvel. Excellent. Freshness that defies belief.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
~ please note : while fill levels vary slightly, I have inspected a great number of bottles that I would happy classify as very good. Given storage in a wet, Tuffeau cellar the corks on most bottles are mouldy beneath the capsule. Such mould, however, does not penetrate the cork and is of no concern to the drinker. This will come as no surprise to the seasoned drinker of antique Vouvray, Coteaux du Layon, or Mosel.
The corks themselves are in excellent firm yet never dry condition. I have opened a number of bottles (finding the quality level remarkably consistent, and high!); easily extracting the corks, without crumbling, with a standard corkscrew. After removing cork, I recommend wiping the inside of the neck of the bottle with a clean, slightly damp cloth to remove any residue. Enjoy! ~
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The new Le Tuffeau
2026
This week, by the glass
Camin Larredya 2023 Jurancon Sec 'La Part Davant'
Domaine Tempier 2024 Bandol Rose
Protero 2019 Adelaide Hills Nebbiolo 'Capo'
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Please join us for a drink soon. Reservations preferred.
Bookings and after-6.00pm access: (03) 9419 3867
Tue. 11.00 am–6.00 pm
Wed.–Sat. 11.00 am–11.00 pm
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If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.