Jean-Pierre Boistard 2001 Vouvray Tendre

"This nearly-sec Vouvray from the now defunct domaine of Jean-Pierre Boistard brims with vibrant charm as it enters its 25th year. There is a distinct backwardness upon opening, which one could almost mistake for reduction. With aeration fresh green apples and ripe quince jostle with yellow cooking apples and honeysuckle, complemented by pleasing trim of ginger together with candied pineapple and citrus peel. Also present are faint cooked mandarin peel, tarragon (I think of the Marmalade at the Queensberry Street Co-op), and deep mineral notions. There are suggestions of age in the form of a gentle patina of crumbled earth, mycelium, and sliced white mushroom. The lush palate is simply splendid: an array of fruits from across the spectrum - crisp green apple, yellow peach, passionfruit, and a rich, sweet edge of cooked-down citrus peel, all tidied up by a lightning bolt of acidity which simply defies the bottle age. This wonderful package concludes with a very long finish, pleasingly bitter and saline. Simply glorious." — David