Holyman 2023 Lutruwita Pinot Noir

"I had the privilege of meeting Joe Holyman late last year. I had previously visited his vineyard at Gravelly Beach and found him elusive, and was subsequently relegated to collecting and drinking a number of his wines to date. His slightly gruff personality is not reflected in his wines at all which are gracious, delicate, and intricately complex. They do reflect his no-nonsense character which I find refreshing. On first pour, this Pinot is quite reductive (notes of burnt rubber, cordite) but this dissipates with vigorous aeration to reveal perfumes of potpourri, raspberry, and black tea. The palate again is closed, and requires time to open, yet reveals subtle raspberry fruit, some broken oyster shell, and further red florals. If only the Chambolle wines of Francois Bertheau were this accessible and well-priced, but I think Joe is neck-for-neck with his Burgundian colleague." - David