letuffeau.com
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Chateau Thivin
Cote de Brouilly, Beaujolais
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“The 2023 vintage represents a high watermark for Chateau Thivin.
I feel like every year since the 2017 release, I have said that these wines are the best they’ve ever been. This is true, as each year has represented a qualitative increase driven both by vintage conditions in Cote de Brouilly, and increasing exactitude coupled with a fruit-first approach by the Geoffray family.
However, the 2023s really are the best these wines have ever been. I have been lucky to sample all of the below, and my enthusiasm is undimmed. They have such presence and fullness, allied to perfect structure, and simply mind-boggling freshness and lifted perfumes. There is nothing more you could ask of these wines, and I am serious about that.
Neal Martin, our favourite and characteristically harsh critic concurs with this pointing and notes below. I stress that it is rare for him to award Grand Cru Chablis more than 93 points, take his word seriously.”
— David
“Château Thivin is a timeless winery that seems as if it were created at the same time as the Côte de Brouilly hillside where it perches. In my opinion, this is the leading producer of that appellation*, consistently crafting a range of characterful wines that are matured in their old foudres.”
— Neal Martin, Vinous
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~ please note : discounts are automatically applied at the digital check-out! ~
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Chateau Thivin 2023 Cote de Brouilly ‘Les Sept Vignes’
(Shelf Price: $79.00)
Offer Price: $67.00
MAGNUM: $155.00
“The 2023 Côte de Brouilly Les sept vignes was raised in 40-hectolitre foudres. This has a well-defined, minerally bouquet with pure blackcurrant, raspberry and wild strawberry scents. It becomes more floral with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied and cohesive, with higher acidity than you would expect and a pinch of cracked black pepper toward the finish. This is excellent.”
91 points — Neal Martin, Vinous
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Chateau Thivin 2023 Cote de Brouilly ‘Les Griottes de Brulhie’
(Shelf Price: $92.00)
Offer Price: $78.00
“The 2023 Côte de Brouilly Les Griottes de Brulhié aged in large wooden foudre. According to winemaker Sonja Geoffray, this cuvée was bottled a little earlier than normal. It has a complex bouquet that is more precise and terroir-driven than the preceding Le Clos cuvée, featuring notes of brambly red fruit, crushed rock and a light vanillary touch of raisin. The palate is medium-bodied, focused and refined, with finely knit tannins and a tensile finish. The acidity effortlessly counters the richness of this wine. It's one of the best Côte de Brouilly that you will find. This is wonderful.”
94 points — Neal Martin, Vinous
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Chateau Thivin 2023 Cote de Brouilly ‘La Chapelle’
(Shelf Price: $105.00)
Offer Price: $89.00
“The 2023 Côte de Brouilly La Chapelle was the last to be picked as it tends to have natural acidity from growing at the top of the hill. The vines are located just above Les Griottes on a 50% slope. This has another very complex bouquet that oddly reminds me of a Morey-Saint-Denis (different region, different grape, I know, but…) The palate has noticeable acidity on the entry, with layers of pure graphite-tinged red fruit. This is tensile from start to finish with a very minerally finish that fans out wonderfully. Is it as good as the 2022? Yes. The 2023 might even surpass it.”
94+ points — Neal Martin, Vinous
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Chateau Thivin 2023 Cote de Brouilly ‘Cuvee Zaccharie’
(Shelf Price: $155.00)
Offer Price: $129.00
“The 2023 Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie is, as usual, a barrel selection aged in Burgundy barrels for 12 months with 10% new wood. This has a more sensual bouquet with luxurious red berry fruit, allspice and light fireside ash scents blossoming in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, harmonious and poised with silky tannins, a fine bead of acidity and a pure, slightly peppery note that fans out on the finish. This is very seductive, as usual. The 2023 is superb.”
93 points — Neal Martin, Vinous
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*Neal’s typically stern austerity gives way here to what I still think is understated praise; Chateau Thivin is the producer of Beaujolais, full-stop. While all the cool kids’ eyes pop out of their skulls at the celebrity labels of Morgon (not naming names), I can’t help but feel that in warmer, modern vintages even the wines from great vineyards are suffering, becoming flabby and stew-fruited. Take my advice and jump ship to Mont Brouilly, you won’t look back …
— Nick
If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.