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letuffeau.com
(Link)
“The Mayford 'Ovens Crossing' is a special bottling not released every vintage. A blend composed largely of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo, it could have been developed in a laboratory by winemaker Eleana Anderson for my tastes: the perfect meeting of Claret and Rioja in the cool Alpine Valleys of Victoria.” — David
Reminder - Upcoming Events
Bookings and Queries by reply email or 9419 3867
—
Wednesday, 15th July
6.30pm
The Great Tradition of Rioja
-
a guided tasting with David Murray
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Blanco, Rosado, and Tinto Wines
from
R. Lopez de Heredia
La Rioja Alta
Hermanos Pecina
Akutain
$115.00 per ticket
~ enquire ~
—
“I feel the below is a wine for which I would rather let my tasting note communicate my thoughts. Indeed, so close this wine comes to the border of profound that you all, Readers, should sample it instead of reading the below. Experience, perhaps.
I should briefly preface however, dear Readers, by writing the following.
…
The first time I encountered a wine from Eleana Anderson at Mayford I was blown away. Her 2022 Tempranillo, from the Alpine Valleys around Porepunkah, simply floored me. A wine of savoury elegance, withdrawn and brooding but never insular, it spoke of traditional winemaking and extraordinary respect for her vineyard reflected through her cellar work. Finally, serious Tempranillo in this country. Really, Eleana crafts ‘serious’ wines.
The ‘Ovens Crossing’ is a limited release wine of great stature. Mercifully, it never feels forced or over-made in the tradition of many gran reserva or gran selezione bottlings. Instead, if anything, it demands even more of the appreciative party. It is a wine of resolve and integrity.
No doubt if international critics started clamouring about this we would not ever get to see it in the open market. Perhaps it would become one of those wines that sell out on release to a private mailing list. It certainly would deserve such acclaim and commensurate price-point where perhaps some of the others do not.
The 2023 is the finest release to date I have seen of the Ovens Crossing.
Largely Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a small proportion of Malbec.
Released exclusively to Le Tuffeau by Eleana Anderson. Consequently, only available here. I feel entrusted with something I care for deeply, vinously speaking. I hope I can trust you, dear Readers, to likewise show this wine the respect it deserves.
This should be one of Australia’s most collected wines.”
— David
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Mayford 2023 Porepunkah ‘Ovens Crossing’
limited
(Shelf Price: $75.00)
Offer: $65.00
“Aromatically very reserved though suggesting great depth, the 2023 'Ovens Crossing' from Mayford unfurls, as if emerging de profundis, shades of graphite and struck rock; then cold embers, Upmann Cigars; following are cassis and mulberry, candied cherry, orange peel; finally hints of crushed blackberry and dried sage lurk in the background. There is a wonderful sense of array here. The palate is beguiling, utterly silken in feel and strongly informed by cooling mineral and herbal tones. After the first third there is a powerful surge of acidity. Lots of graphite on the conclusion. The tannins are present throughout; subtle, but quite firm at this very early stage. Once again, a suggestion of depth and immensity, this time through the layered nature of the tannin. Initially, there are mineral tones and peel together with sage and bay, following are candied cherry, plum, and morello before deeper pitched blackberry, dark plum, and mulberry. The conclusion sees graphite and granite notes
repeat. My notes read 'a chiastic wine'; everything is so marvellously proportioned and cross-referenced. Excellent, superb even. Certainly without equal in this country.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
I am usually hesitant to ascribe a drinking window to wines. Age is not only difficult to determine, but tastes are also very different and one person’s ‘ready’ is another’s ‘tired’. However, the Mayford Ovens Crossing is a special case. I feel that it should be not approached until at least 10+ years from release, in the manner of great Gran Reserva wines. Consequently, drink from 2036+.
— David
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Please join us for a drink soon. Reservations preferred.
Bookings and after-6.00pm access: (03) 9419 3867
Tue. 11.00 am–6.00 pm
Wed.–Sat. 11.00 am–11.00 pm
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***
watch this space
for
The Antipodean Wine Digest
with
Mahmood Fazal
&
David Murray
launching early August
If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.