Mayford 2023 Porepunkah Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon 'Ovens Crossing'

"The Mayford 'Ovens Crossing' is a special bottling not released every vintage. A blend composed largely of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo, it could have been developed in a laboratory by winemaker Eleana Anderson for my tastes: the perfect meeting of Claret and Rioja in the cool Alpine Valleys of Victoria.

Aromatically very reserved though suggesting great depth, the 2023 'Ovens Crossing' from Mayford unfurls, as if emerging de profundis, shades of graphite and struck rock; then cold embers, Upmann Cigars; following are cassis and mulberry, candied cherry, orange peel; finally hints of crushed blackberry and dried sage lurk in the background. There is a wonderful sense of array here. The palate is beguiling, utterly silken in feel and strongly informed by cooling mineral and herbal tones. After the first third there is a powerful surge of acidity. Lots of graphite on the conclusion. The tannins are present throughout; subtle, but quite firm at this very early stage. Once again, a suggestion of depth and immensity, this time through the layered nature of the tannin. Initially, there are mineral tones and peel together with sage and bay, following are candied cherry, plum, and morello before deeper pitched blackberry, dark plum, and mulberry. The conclusion sees graphite and granite notes repeat. My notes read 'a chiastic wine'; everything is so marvellously proportioned and cross-referenced. Excellent, superb even. Certainly without equal in this country.

This should be one of Australia's most collected wines." — David