Yayoi Wines 2023 Swan Hill Chenin Blanc 'Vallee of the Kings'

An elegant and poised Chenin that avoids the seemingly pharaonic curse that haunts Australian expressions of the varietal: over-ripeness coupled to anonymity. Delicate on first pour, this gains intensity with air to reveal notions of crushed citrus leaf, quinine, smashed rock, and some white orchard fruit; complexity occupies the background with lime pith and flesh providing depth as well as subtle spicy allusions. Light to medium-bodied with soft phenolics and a purity of flavour uncluttered by artifice. Further yellow and green citrus flavours, peach kernel, toasted almond and struck rock lead to a bracing finish. Fine! - David