Wilimee 2024 Macedon Ranges Chardonnay

"Faintly smudged by noble mineral reduction, this 2024 Chardonnay from the Wilimee Vineyard unwinds in the glass with a  distinctly Burgundian-leaning nose of smashed granite and quartz, ripe Williams Pear, white and yellow stonefruit, fresh thyme, and slightly charred pineapple. All this is trimmed in crushed citrus leaves and salted lemon rind. Here, too, is an inkling of what an Englishman would call Clementine: that soft and perfumed orange citrus so beloved on their funny little island. Seriously though, I think what makes this wine so alluring is its herbal quality; never green or underripe, but softly blurring the mineral and otherwise taut Macedon granite-led profile with intriguing smoky and earthy complexities. 

The palate is elegant and on the lighter side of medium bodied; it runs, Puligny-like, with a weightless caress across the middle of the palate and sees a fine hurdle of acid rise in the back 1/3, phenolics gentle. There is a sense of restraint, holding back, that I find very attractive here: the mingling flavours of herbs, pear, peach, and crushed talc minerality all with much in reserve. Age will be most kind. The finish features repeating notes of clementine and ripe pear, also a pear skin like phenolic tug, coupled to that thyme note with faint anise touches. A delight - very fine." — David