Werkstatt 2024 Riesling 'Sekt' (24m sur lie)

"The second disgorgement of Bridget Mac’s Werkstatt Sparkling Riesling ‘Sekt from the 2024 vintage is marvellously fresh, not so much bursting from the glass but more cutting across the nose like a stuff marine breeze carrying smoky nuances of struck rock and crushed chalk followed by capers, beach sand, crumbled stone, and shucked oyster. Behind this billows aromas of toasted bran, bush honey, and warm rocks in which bask the more fruity touches of mandarin blossom, candied lime peel, salt-preserved lemons, bitter apricot, stone fruit pit, and ground almond. If the earlier disgorgement had more high-wire tension this wine has more filigree and nuance, even within that ocean storm context! The palate is elegant and satiny on entry before a huge swell of chalky phenolic rises on a tidal surge of acidity; make no attempt to resist as it sweeps the second half of the palate out to sea with all the salinity this presupposes, leaving the the impression of shoreline salt-crusted watermarks on a limestone shelf. From this emerges tart pear and white stone fruit, then native lime and pomelo which over some is succulence to balance the austerity otherwise present; hints of brown spices, dried wax, and roast oats add complexity.

Incredible. The shape of the wine is fearsome and awe-inspiring and yet I cannot help but return for another glass. One of Australia’s great aperitifs? No. One of Australia’s great sparkling wines." — David