Stefan Vetter 2021 Sylvaner Trocken ‘Muschelkalk’

"Wet limestone, broken chalk and sea shells, and warm stones abound on the nose presenting, as with everything in this wine, different facets of the same aspect; initially, as described, this first aspect is one of minerality. Behind, veil-like, there are floral and blossom aromas with pear orchard, meadowflowers, cut herbs, and something altogether more exotic, perhaps frangipane flower. Then, unexpectedly as the beholder has been contemplating these more cerebral elements, the sheer fleshiness of the wine makes itself apparent: yellow citrus pulp and pith, white very ripe pear, coriander seed, pineapple sage. There is so much energy here the wine practically bristles or buzzes, like the eyes adjusting to watching insects in a field in spring: only when the eyes glaze over and loose focus, then do all the minutiae reveal themselves. The palate is simply incredible; there is no sense of directionality here as the wine seems to expand; the acidity feels multifaceted in profile, every surface is touched. Chalky and intensely mineral, there is initially a sensation of austerity which retreats both the sides of the mouth and somehow around the teeth, leaving in the middle of the tongue a wonderful silken fleshiness. There is a burst of the distinctly tropical, with light passionfruit notes inflecting pear, white grapefruit with its attendant brown spice qualities, pomelo; oyster liqueur and shell, coriander seed and green cardamom; some white pepper. Repeating notes of wax and leatherwood abound on the long, resonant finish. I am simply off the rails, giddy about this wine. It must be tasted to be believed - everything about it just stirs sheer excitement in me. Excellent." — David