Pierre Boisson 2021 Macon-Bray 'Champs Saint-Pierre'

"Wildly exciting to me, this Pierre Boisson Macon Chardonnay unfurls in a resolutely old-fashioned manner from the glass, redolent of winemaking and vineyards from the Cote d’Or before the spectre of premature oxidation. 

Classic, almost Puligny-like scents of lime zest, grass clippings, and green tree fruit unfold alongside influence of their winemaking, with pastry and cedary notes in support. Macon is evident with light figurations of honey and the merest nod of tropicality, with a welcome menthol streak and dash of white pepper closing round the extraordinary aromatic profile. 

The palate is no less old-fashioned, with oak tannin and incisive phenolics nicely layered into the somewhat sumptuous profile. It's hard to pin down, but the palate just ‘feels’ old-school. Slightly honeyed on the entry, and a tad of welcome viscosity buffer a profile of firm orchard fruit, wreathed in fresh herbs, lime zest, and a dab of orange oil. Hints of pastry and almond praline on the close. Frankly exquisite for its level, and like the other Boisson wines, a shoe-in for something far more illustrious." — David