Philip Lobley 2022 Yea Valley Pinot Noir

"The definition of garnet in the glass, the 2022 Yea Valley Pinot Noir from Phil Lobley’s home block (planted in 1995) brims with personality from first pour. Aromatically: an array of cherries, including morello and a richer cherry liqueur (dare I say ‘Cherry Ripe’?), dried orange peel, amaro herbs, hints of Kinglake sous bois, and faint mineral hints. As with all of Phil’s wines, this wine is an utter delight on the palate. Silken and flowing, it epitomises the classical Burgundian description ‘round’ in that acidity, tannins, and fruit complete the circle, and never feel disjointed. Further cherries with fresh and dried peels, spice nuances; then violets and hints of cured leather.

There is something about this wine that makes it feel distinctly Australian, an indefinable quality; it never emulates Burgundy. I mean this as the highest praise, after spending the year to date knocking Australian expressions of the varietal, but this is the definition of an Australian Pinot Noir. Chapeau." — David