Payne's Rise 2019 Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 'Anniversary'

"Altogether more composed aromatically, this special release Cabernet from Payne’s Rise immediately has a sense of reserve and dignitas on first pour. After three minutes of attempting to compose this note, this wine has locked down. Escaping its structural event horizon: faint notes of bitter Greek black olive, marjoram, bush-garrigue, mineral and saline inflections, and a core of slightly glowering black fruit unready to be disturbed and this point. I am quite amazed at this aromatic about face executed by this wine; like serious Bordeaux it has gone from initial effusive burst to serious lockdown. Coming back to it again: sage, mint, cloves, blood orange, turned soil, and cigar leaf abound. I should note, aromatically, that after this drawn out process, this is starting to open up with red fruits, estuarine and saline notes, and spice box. The palate is keenly sculpted and stays firmly in luncheon claret medium-bodied territory. The tannins are fine-grained, if firm at this stage, and the wine lingers well past its pay grade. Crushed red and black fruits, salt bush, and mineral nuances upfront; on pondering, sage, black olive, blood orange flesh and rind, and faint spice box characters on the finish. I can’t stop thinking about this wine." — David