Palacio de Fefinanes 2023 Rias Baixas Blanco 'Albarino de Fefinanes'

"Brilliant yellow-gold in the glass, this powerful 2023 Albarino from Palacio de Fefinanes initially treads a fine line between fresh and pithy aromas of melon and rind thereof, lemon pith, and tart yellow nectarine; and more salty and savoury flavours: preserved lemon, green pistachio, chalk dust and seaspray, and lightly toasted oats. The wine gains complexity but also finesse with air: notions of coriander seed, fresh parsley, and mint intermingle alongside a drizzle of honey on the fruits previously described; the melon-flavours strongly evoking cantaloupe. The palate is full yet remains largely high-toned/in the upper-regions of the mouth until the wines denouement when it gradually wends downwards. The palate: wow. Properly mouth-watering acidity and salinity present here, almost assaultive in refreshment. Glossy finish. Yellow cooking apple, bran and spices from lees-work, then tending salty and complex with preserved citrus rind, bitter lemon; a dash of quinine and parsley on finish as taut phenolics and slight fruit tannin makes its present felt." — David