Oria-Riff 2025 McLaren Vale Grenache 'Old Vine Dry Red'

"The 2025 Oria Riff McLaren Vale Grenache is as last year surtitled 'Dry Red', this feels very apposite. A pale ruby with underpinnings of garnet in the glass, this is more immediately aromatically expressive than its 'Dry White' counterpart. Rose-bush sous bois, iron filings, mineral salts, garrigue (thyme and oregano), and orange peel all drift lazily around the glass is if on a hot day. The aromatic core conversely feels very fresh and driven, with fresh blood orange flesh, strawberry whites, and light red cherry all springing into action with every swirl of the glass. Lurking in the background is a hint of amaro and almond paste. Fine? Fine!

The palate is tightly coiled, cooling and balsam; driven by a line of pinpoint acidity in the second half, with emergent fine powdery tannins that never verge into chalky despite being allied to a sandy/pulverised minerality. Rhubarb, blood orange, fresh red cherries and citrus piths; indeed there is something of the Campari (Amaro-esque)here with an immensely pleasing bitter finish. Almond paste and a naughty cherry note appear towards the second half. Delicious, refreshing; very fine (indeed!) and perhaps something of the indecent here ... latent for now but age will reveal all. As it always does." — David