North Wines Contrefort 2022 Macedon Ranges Savagnin Sous Voile

"This is the best Savagnin in Australia.

Strikingly Jurassic, authentically rugged, and demanding a comparable, Comte-like cheese from the bovines in Gippsland. There is something of the authentically guttural peasant to this wine. An unappealing hazy tubidity greets the eye: peach-skin orange in the glass, this Savagnin is surly, with mineral, peat, and preserved lemon rind aromas. There is a faint whiff of cheesecloth, salted cashews, and the sort of spices you might find in a kitchen in Jura. These aromas ride a welcome wave of volatility. The palate is as austere as Winter after a poor harvest, but fills out with its requisite cheese pairing. Chalk, further preserved citrus rinds, some stonefruit richness, and dried kitchen garden herbs. Encountering this wine is nothing short of astounding. It is a force of nature and I am so glad to see it in the Australian wine scene. Be warned …" - David