Michel Couvreur 9 y/o Single Malt Whisky 'VJ'

“Le Tuffeau is a wine shop. I cannot profess to have much knowledge in this area, truly. Certainly, however I know much more about wine than other substances. This leads us to liquid gold, and not the kind that comes from Afghanistan. Whisky. I am a complete novice in the realm of this spirit; count me an enjoyer of Glenfarclas 25 on the odd occasion.

I recently had the opportunity to sample a whisky from France; a project initiated by the late Michel Couvreur in Burgundy. Scottish distilled spirit elevaged in Burgundian cellars. I suppose this elevates the art of elevage to a whole new level. The whiskies were whiskies, bar one: The ‘VJ Maturation’. A quick background and we had to order it.

Aged for 9 years in Vin Jaune casks from a certain Stephane Tissot. What more could you want? A Vin Jaune aged in whisky casks ... there is an elusive, and largely unavailable corresponding Tissot cuvee out there ...

Perhaps the most vinous whisky I have ever sampled. Mid gold, faintly turbid with natural sediment. Unfurls in the glass (Gabriel, naturally) with an immensely complex yet familiar nose of sea-spray, peat, warm stones, cassia bark and cloves, dried bay and nori, and raisins. The profile here is overwhelming savoury, to my tastes. The palate is warming and spiritous though never submerged in either oak-derived baking spice nor alcohol; refreshingly medium-bodied, neither tacky nor glycerol.”

— David