Kopke NV Vinho do Porto Ruby 'Reserve'

"Deep lurid ruby in colour and name, the ever reliable Kopke NV Reserve Ruby Port bursts from the glass with a burly, hair-on-the-chest aromatic profile of cherry and blackcurrant liqueur, blackberry jam, cooked orange, and boot polish. The palate is fresh and bright. There is sugar, to be sure, but also tangy acidity and good chalky phenolic. A hint of bitter dark cooking chocolate and dried orange peel emerges at the finish as if to restrain decadent waves of fresh blackberries and cherry jam. What could this be if not utterly drinkable?" — David