Joshua Cooper 2025 Macedon Ranges Pinot Noir 'Doug's Vineyard'

"Poised precisely between ruby and garnet, with the barest tinting of violet, the 2025 Pinot Noir from 'Doug's Vineyard' by Joshua Cooper needs vigorous aeration to settle into its groove. A faint pall of reduction and oak dissipates, as cloud from a valley when banished by the sun, to reveal well defined aromas of rose bush sous bois, damson, Morello cherry, cooked rhubarb, and an inkling of baking spice. These aromatic profiles seem to fall into, and interchange between, several channels: the spicy, almost amaro-esque notes; the deep and sweetly fruited; and the earthy, savoury elements. Time will cohere. Candied Raspberry and a dash of white pepper add nuance. The palate is sateen and undercut by a long and fine line of acidity that runs straight down the centre of the tongue; the finish fans out slightly with surprisingly feathering tannins. The wine executes a marvellous prestidigitation: one expects a daunting, monstrous structure to emerge and yet it never does, and instead it finishes with great subtlety. A palate of harmoniously balanced poles, the three corners above find their analogues of aroma expressed in flavours. Spicy and tart red cherry, sage, rhubarb, trimmed in nutmeg and cassia; ripe raspberry, coulis of same, and hints of red plum; then running beneath all this is a sweetly loamy base. I am surprised, as it is Australian Pinot. Certainly the best iteration of this vineyard I have yet seen. Very fine." — David