Gunderloch 2023 Niersteiner Riesling 'Roter Hang'

"Aromatically vivid from first pour, this wine soars from the glass with arresting aromatics in peals: ripe and ruddy peach skin and tart apricot, lightly tropical flavours, red delicious apple, red and Sichuan peppercorns, and hints of fresh oregano. Between these olfactory outcroppings run fissures of minerality bonding everything together - this petrichor, warm red soil tones that is intensely redolent of vineyard. I feel a German critic here would comment on: fine and spicy Riesling grapes, but I am less laconic. The palate is full and piquant, with structuring acidity and mild Riesling-tannin; the fruit presence has the quality of being sliced (rather than crushed or preserved, etc.), and the wine sits in along the bottom runnels of the cheeks pleasingly behind and next to the lower layer of teeth. Flavours: first pleasingly tropical including passionfruit, ripe peach, star fruit; then spicy elements and grapefruit together with altogether more exotic pomelo and green mango race along the side of the palate; the finish: mineral enriched and more elongated with a piquant finish." — David