Emrich-Schonleber 2023 Nahe Riesling 'Mineral'

"Immediately expressive at first pour, the 2023 ‘Mineral’ Nahe Riesling from Emrich-Schonleber is aromatically redolent of rain-slicked slate. Mercurial in presentation, there are smoky nuances encircling core elements of pomelo and ruby grapefruit, together with complexifying notions of fresh cut fennel fronds, peppercorn tree, and thistle cardoon. The palate is tightly coiled, springlike; the metaphor turns on a dime here as the wine runs like cooling mountain spring water, replete with forest tannins onto the tongue. Then, an explosion of phenolics and bracing acidity; a long mineral close which seemingly closes in itself and draws out a fine line across the centre of the tongue. Ripe and exotic lime with attendant brown spice characteristics, sliced fennel and tart white Williams pear, pink grapefruit flesh and firm pineapple; then repeating mineral notes. There is something sappy, resinous, and coniferous in the flavour spectrum (while certainly not in texture) - fascinating. I believe the Germans would employ the descriptor: vegetal. Mean, in the best possible way. Very fine." — David