Domaine Servin 2022 Chablis 'Les Pargues'

For me, Domaine Servin represents the greatest value proposition in all Chablis today. These wines are well-underpriced for their level (Grand Cru can still be had for under $200, and Premier Cru wines barely leap over the $100 mark...), but what is truly remarkable is that they simultaneously and consistently over-perform for their level. As the ever-astute critic Will Kelley once cheekily remarked, "I enjoy serving these wines blind at home and watching while guests grope around among the village's most famous names", no doubt hinting at such addresses as Dauvissat and Raveneau.

Sourced from 'Les Pargues', a villages-level vineyard widely acknowledged to have fine Premier Cru calibre, the 2022 Servin opens with a surprisingly austere nose for the vintage, with cool marine notes , with a healthy dollop of dried white flowers. Satiny, medium-bodied, with ample chalkiness bringing textural interest, lively acid, and a long, saline finish. Just about the best Chablis you can get for $70.

- Nick