Christmann 2023 Pfalz Riesling Trocken 'Aus den Lagen'

"A thoroughly 'Deutsch' nose, strict at first with a faint haze of reduction clouding specificity other than limestone/sandstone dusts that feel aromatically 'close'. Time in the air clears the tropics and cooler heads prevail to reveal yellow stone fruit, white piths from citrus, cut fresh herbs, bay, tart pear, and faint notions of chutneys together with iodine. I cannot stress the pleasure here from the surliness, the sense of discipline that is present. The palate is very fine for the level, the wine possessing that classic Pfalz 'chunkiness' without ever feeling corpulent; perhaps it is saved, for me, by being elevated to the upper cheeks as if below the sinuses. The flavours move here in blocks, as if tectonic: candied ginger abuts curry leaf; lemon pith next to apricot; yellow peach and apple; then compact and chewy with phenolics and Riesling-tannin on the close. Slight echoes of the chutney again along with salty mineral dabs. Delicious. " — David