Christmann 2022 Pfalz Riesling Trocken 'Aus den Lagen'

Sophie Christmann has been driving a quality increase at the Weingut she recently took over from her father, and this 'Aus den Lagen' Riesling from Pfalz sits at the forefront of the estate's offerings. Having eliminated lower level wines, and sold off fruit that would classify as merely 'estate', this wine is drawn entirely from lieu-dit sites ranked either as Gosse Lage (Grand Cru) or Erste Lage (Premier Cru) by the VDP (German Winegrowing Association). The assemblage includes such august sites as Idig, Olberg, and Vogelsang. Deeply stony, with a degree of reduction masking some fruit at first pour, this Riesling carries crushed lime leaf, heirloom apples, and stone fruit above a nose of crushed tuff-rock and seaspray. The palate is dense yet creamy, with a mineral inflected finish; very Pfalz. Bramble apples, tart peach, and some lemon pith jostle followed by a salt streaked rocks and hints of wax. - David