Chateau de Villeneuve 2019 Saumur Champigny 'Le Grand Clos'

"A wine demanding altogether more patience, the 2019 'Le Grand Clos' unwinds in the glass as if underscored by the Tuffeau itself. Minerality dominates the aromatic profile, along with earthen and tobacco nuances wreathed in smokey varietal notes and baking spices. Layers of sliced red and blue fruits are certainly present, but cigar humidor, loam, ceps, and underbrush feel more prominent at this stage. The layered, pressure-composite structure of the aromatics, like the famed Rock (Tuffeau, not Dwayne Johnson), adds to the intrigue of the wine.  There is also a charming, Claret-like, graphite note that adds to the sense of reserve. Revisiting with air there are delightfully fresh aromas of blood orange, mint, sage, and crushed red fruits. The palate is silken and seamless on entry, then tends chalky in later mouthful with a delightfully sapid finish once again over pavers of Tuffeau. Tannins are finer than the grainy structure of the estate wine. Crushed blue fruits, some red cherry and a touch of cranberry; wet rock, crushed herbs, cured meat; blood orange, dried tarragon and sage; cracked black pepper. There is less a sense of melange and more one of array. More august but no less delicious. Fine!" — David