letuffeau.com
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~ “Madiran was one of the areas worst affected by the phylloxera plague. By the middle of this [the 20th] century, authentic Madiran was produced from only 6 hectares … the French describe as confidentiel the production of a wine which is so rare as to be known only to a few connoisseurs … Madiran had certainly become a confidentiel wine …
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If the production of Madiran was once confidentiel, that of the white wine called Pacherenc had until recently been miniscule.” ~
Wines of South-West France - Paul Strang
(The Authoritative Wine Companion to Goose Fat and Garlic)
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Chateau Bouscasse
Vic-Bilh
Bearn, South-West France
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“How can I transmit my enthusiasm for dourly packaged wines from areas largely unknown in Australia made from grapes that nearly became a side-note in vinous history? May I could just say: buy these wines?
You, dear readers, need more than that to drag you kicking-and-screaming over the line.
What follows are hopefully elucidatory notes on the wines of Vic Bilh as well as two stunning, affordable exemplars of that region that serve as an introduction, re-introduction, or affirmation (for those of you, readers, in the know) of what is possible in South-West France.
What also follows are detailed tasting notes, written to lead and to entertain, that give as full a description as I can muster of the flavours and textures of these wines, and their shape on the palate. Such tasting notes will hopefully provide an inkling of insight into these wines and convey my enthusiasm for them.
And it is enthusiasm that these wines require, as with all wines! I can only hope that you will follow me on this journey. I am not imploring you to merely buy these wines, though that of course would of course please me; I am requesting that you are open to exploring a vinous by-way with me.
Bear with me, please, this is a longer read.”
— David
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~ please note : discounts are automatically applied at the digital check-out! ~
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“While many people claim recently to have been interested in the so-called ‘rustic’ wines from other parts of France, there has long be a confidentiel interest locally and on the Continent in the wines made south of the Gironde; wines that reflect soils, farming practices, and grape varietals that hardly penetrate into the wine-lovers consciousness, let alone the news cycle. Indeed, how many of your natural ‘paysan-wine’ swilling friends drink Duras, Jurancon, or Gaillac?
The wine region most appropriately named ‘Vic Bilh’ lies in Gascogne, not far from the Pyrenees; close to an elbow of the Ardour river where three ridgelines along three tributaries provide sun-exposure, climate moderation, and access to iron-oxide and magnesium-oxide rich soils. What is in a name? ‘Vic’ - a cantonement, ‘Bilh’ - old in medieval Bearnaise dialect. Even in the back reaches of history this region was considered old.
Traditionally, and unlike its prosperous northern neighbour (Bordeaux), this region has not been enriched by wine-related commerce. Or any commerce. Indeed,
“In South-West France tractors were comparative rarities until after 1960 - before that the land was ploughed by oxen or, more rarely, horses. In the old days nobody would have thought of de-stalking the grapes before making the wine …”
Wines of South-West France - Paul Strang
There are two main appellations for wine here are ‘Pacherenc du Vic Bilh’ for white, and ‘Madiran’ for red. The former is a blend of local grapes, predominantly Petit and Gros Manseng, Petit Courbu, and sometimes Arrufiac; the latter is legally between 40-60% Tannat (sometimes 100%), and the remainder usually Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Pacherenc is far from some neutral cheap and alternative white. Especially, as below, when it is enriched with Petit Manseng it has flamboyant tropical characteristics and lush stone fruit qualities, complemented by fine acidity and notes of crushed stone.
Madiran, to those that know, can have a fearsome reputation. Pomerol for Peasants. Thick skins and slow ripening endows it with potent structure, dark fruit flavours, and assaultive tannins. Recent innovations in winemaking, including gentler macerations and time in oak have softened these elements without compromising the essential qualitative natures of the region and grape.
One final note. Both the below wines are from Chateau Bouscasse, the ancestral estate of Alain Brumont. Brumont is the leading figure of the region, by his industrious nature and by self-appointment; perhaps single-handedly crafting the modicum of international reputation the region possesses. Yet his wines are far from ‘modern’ and generically international to suit overseas palates. His young step-son, Antoine Veiry, has recently taken over at the helm after stints at Jacques Selosse and Ch. Les Carmes de Haut-Brion. His mark has already been made, winding back the use of barriques preferred by his father (replacing them with larger foudre) and generally practicing more gentle extraction – cooler ferment temperatures, no punch-downs, etc. These are now Tannat-based wines of supreme, perhaps Bordelais finesse. Not that the local paysans would like the comparison.
To quip: these are the clarets I drink when I am not drinking claret. I hope that this jest conveys just how seriously these wines should be taken. They are delicious; terroir-representative wines; wines that speak of place, that demand food and attention, and bring me great joy in Autumn.”
— David
I
Chateau Bouscasse 2020 Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Sec ‘Les Jardins Philosophiques’
(Shelf Price: $67.00)
Offer: $58.00
6-pack : $312.00 ($52/bottle)
80% Petit Courbu, 20% Petit Manseng
“A full yellow with faint green highlights. Immediately arresting nose with yellow continental and tropical fruits abounding: pineapple, star fruit, ripe pear and quince. There is a whiff of the exotic, flirting around the olfactory edge: saffron, frangipane flower, kampot pepper, and ripe mango.
The palate is well textured: creamy yet with fine phenolics and acidity, full but airy in texture and never feeling more than medium bodied; finishing fresh. There is an interplay between cheek pinching acidity and the creamy texture that is so charming I find myself smiling as I note it here. The flavours here are those of simple pleasures: very ripe peach and pear dominate, including that slightly dangerous near almond essence note that ripe pear develops (pear drops?); then spices including saffron again, cinnamon and its accompanying bitterness; before faint quinine presents itself with hints of pineapple and mango on second fiddle. The finish has a welcome bitter note akin to mango skins and lemon pith. Fine; and more importantly very drinkable.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
II
Chateau Bouscasse 2020 Madiran
(Shelf Price: $105.00)
Offer: $89.00
6-pack : $480.00 ($80/bottle)
70% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
“To the eye this is classic Madiran: opaque as the dead of night ... yet around the edges ruby garnet notes lurk; there is nary a trace of luridity present.
Aromatically akin to falling, willingly, into a black hole: blackcurrant and liqueur of such, stewed black cherries with bay and cinnamon beyond the event horizon. The naked singularity: beech bark - that wet under-bark and undergrowth scent, then potting soil and clove. Background radiation in the form of redder notes including warm ruddy earth - perhaps rust? Further: balsam, cedar/cypress, campfire ash, and antique furniture - an inkling of a dark, dimly lit Traditional Chinese Medicine shop at the centre of the universe; the wooden-draws and medicinales. I adore the presence of Cabernet Franc here. Then, Maduro cigars & dry stones, faint salinity, with austerity and richness hand-in-hand.
The palate is medium-bodied, structured and sapid with firm but surprisingly silken tannins that possess a mounting intensity before slowly fading away to leave a finish replete with plush fruit. Shape and texture are paramount, and there is something of the breathtaking to the second sip: you are prepared for how powerful the tannins are at the zenith, but not for how utterly finessed and delicate they are at first appearance as if they weave themselves out of nothing. I think of the immense crescendo in Berg’s Wozzeck between Act 3 Scenes 2 and 3.
Cassis, dark plums, ink, black cherries; then medicinal herbs and red cherries, cassia, hints of bitter chocolate, and a touch of roast red peppers. On the long finish: creme de cassis with repeating spicy and savoury notes. Pomerol for peasants? Not any more. Very fine.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
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The new Le Tuffeau
2026
This week, by the glass
Joshua Cooper 2024 Central Victoria Chardonnay ‘Dash Farms’
Domaine Tempier 2023 Bandol Rose
Chateau Bouscasse 2020 Madiran
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As mentioned above Le Tuffeau is open for 2026. We are still an eccentric fine wine shop on the second floor of the Nicholas Building. What is different: we have a new Liquor Licence permitting on premises consumption.
Snacks: coming soon.
Please join us for a drink soon. Reservations preferred.
Bookings and after-6.00pm access: (03) 9419 3867
Tue. 11.00 am–6.00 pm
Wed.–Sat. 11.00 am–11.00 pm
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If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.