letuffeau.com
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Donnhoff
Nahe
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“Whoa.
So writes the measured German critic Anne Krebiehl regarding one of the below wines.
I have always had the same thought about any wine from Cornelius Donnhoff, right from my first sips of Riesling from the vaunted Hermannshohle and Brucke Grosse Lage (Grand Cru), to sampling the below more entry level Kabinett and Trocken wines.
These wines all have a common DNA; a cool and herbal quality that runs through them, a complexity of mineral qualities that jostle for attention, and lines of acidity that course through the wines. These are wines that are alive, reflective of their producer’s conscientious vineyard work and the great terroir he works.
I have often noted to clients there are two truths to German wine, especially Riesling, that I restate here:
i) France only has one Cote d’Or, in Burgundy; Germany has many; in Nahe, in Mosel, in Rheinhessen, in Pfalz; and
ii) Keller is outclassed by a clutch of locally respected but neither over-priced nor globally hyped producers.
Donnhoff is one of these producers with holdings in some of the world’s greatest vineyards. Not to be missed.”
— David
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~ please note : discounts are automatically applied at the digital check-out! ~
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I
Donnhoff 2023 Nahe Riesling Trocken
(Shelf Price: $59.00)
Offer Price: $49.00
“For the first time this year the mercury is rising to something that could be considered warm. I am so glad I have a glass of this wine in my hand from which to write the below note.
The Donnhoff 2023 Estate Riesling Trocken bursts from the glass with classically Nahe aromas of pineapple tops, green mango, crushed lime leaves along with lime fruit, broken slate, and a slightly creamy note redolent of excellent Pacific oysters. Aeration and concentration brings a herbal touch, fennel and hints of sage, to the surface along with sensation I think of as a tightened mineral grip. The palate opens fantastically fresh, then brilliantly alternates between fulsome and creamy in the mid-palate, and brightly fresh and mineral along the edges. Philippine mango, lime flesh, tart pineapple, positively underripe white peach; mineral and ore like notes, and a hint of whipped leatherwood honey. The close is long for the level, tinctured with welcome gastronomic bitterness, inflected with bitter white pomelo pith, and a slight tannic grip. The finish gains delineation with air and tends more herbal, ie: classically Nahe, with sage and fresh parsley notes emerging to add complexity. As
if this wine needs more of that!
My favourite ‘Estate Trocken’ available in Australia.”
— David
Order here
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II
Donnhoff 2023 Niederhauser Klamm Riesling Kabinett
(Shelf Price: $78.00)
Offer Price: $65.00
“The 2023 Riesling Niederhäuser Klamm Kabinett, from porphyry facing southeast, has a slightly darker aspect on the nose. Wet stone shines through the lemon, slowly gaining more ground. The palate has touches of peach and is a bit sweeter, but all is framed with tender lemon. The finish is totally zesty. Whoa.”
94pts — Anne Krebiehl, vinous.com
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“Terrific tension between juicy white tree fruit and grapefruit aromas and the smoky-stony side of the wine. So bright and energetic on the extremely focused, light-bodied palate. Laser-beam straight in the finish. Drink or hold.”
95pts — Stuart Piggott, jamessuckling.com
Order here
(Link)
If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.