/
letuffeau.com
(Link)
“If, as a winegrower, 90% of your potential harvest is robbed by frost early in the year, you have to rely on the solidarity of colleagues who have been hit less hard or not at all. This was the case a year ago when Cornelius Donnhoff had to lament the loss of his best vineyards at the annual Mainz Weinboerse of the VDP. Philipp Wittmann (Rheinhessen) and later also Nicola Libelli (Weingut Dr. Burklin-Wolf, Pfalz) spontaneously offered to provide their colleague with grapes next autumn. They would cultivate the vineyards—in the Kirchspiel and Steingrube ‘Grosse’ also ‘Erste Lage’ in Westhofen (Rheinhessen) and in the Gerumpel and Rechbachel premiers crus in Wachenheim (Pfalz)—according to their (biodynamic) system, and Donnhoff would then take over from the harvest onward.” — Stephan Reinhardt, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
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“Having had the pleasure of dining for several hours with Cornelius Donnhoff earlier this year, it feels wrong for me to say that misfortune has brought great opportunity. Certainly, after faced with the most challenging vintage for at least two generations, which specifically afflicted practically all and solely his vineyards and plots within the Nahe region with frost, Cornelius has managed though the assistance of his winemaking comrades to turn out a full range of releases that are uniformly very good to excellent.
Perhaps in is because of a concordance with my great sympathy for Cornelius, his estate, and his vines, I approached his project to weather the 2024 weather with great delight. He, at last, was a strange goal long realised. A truly great winemaker of unique approach turning their energy to fruit from outside their usual region or vineyards. Imagine, if you will, Chateau Grand-Puy Lacoste making wine from the vines of Pontet-Canet; or the team at Biondi-Santi accessing the fruit of Soldera. Sheer thought experiments until now.
And all for a worthy cause, supporting this great producer through the hardship of a total loss (above 90% of crop), which would ruin anyone without friends such as Donnhoff’s, to achieve triumph.
The Grosse Gewachs wines in 2024? My style of Riesling, defined buy mineral and herbal qualities and long, surging acid lines. The quantities: enormously limited. Just a handful of bottles for all Australia of each.”
— David
—
“And so it happened. A team of 30 harvesters from the Nahe picked the grapes in both Wachenheim and Westhofen and brought the harvest to the vineyard in Oberhausen/Nahe, where it was processed according to the ‘Donnhoff system.’ As a result, Donnhoff presented a ‘Wachenheimer’ and a "Westhofener'' Ortswein Riesling for the first time—and probably uniquely—at this year's VDP Mainz Weinboerse in late April, alongside the ‘Schlossbockelheimer' Riesling from the Nahe. Whether the respective terroir (i.e., the site cultivated by Burklin or Wittmann) or the ‘Donnhoff system’ prevails in these wines is for everyone to decide. Having tasted all of them blind side by side, I recognized Westhofen immediately and also Schlossbockelheim (which in fact includes the Felsenberg, which won't be bottled as a GG this year), whereas the Wachenheimer was clearly a Donnhoff wine from sandstone soils. It was less complex than the other two, but after I drank the wine from the same bottle two weeks later, it be
came my favorite. I will taste all three wines again later this year to complete the 2024 reviews of this producer who experienced the most challenging vintage for at least two generations.”
— Stephan Reinhardt, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
The Village Wines
I
Donnhoff 2024 Westhofener Riesling Trocken
limited
(Shelf Price: $96.00)
Offer: $82.00 (15%-off)
“A slight and alluring haze of Donnhoff reduction rests like a mist on the gently rolling hills of limestone here, with salty petrichor of such minerality rising with the sun-warmth. These fogs then lift to reveal brilliantly pure and crystalline (it is Donnhoff, after all!) aromas of crushed ancient shells, together lemon pith and zest of same, with hints of thyme. Fruit is very secondary to the mineral flavours present here - the Germans would approvingly remark: ‘vegetal’. The palate, with brilliant vital phenolics matched to acidity that makes one salivate, is balanced and moreish; once again that signature Donnhoff crystalline quality is present. Savoury herbs such as bay and thyme abound, wax, and more crushed stone together with inklings of yellow and pink citrus. The m finish is energetic and If you ever wanted to taste what Cornelius Donnhoff would make of Limestone ... then this is your chance. Unmissable.”
— David
&
“The 2024 Westhofener Riesling trocken VDP.Ortswein was sourced in the Kirchspiel and the Steingrube, two parcels that are cultivated organically by Philipp Wittmann in Rheinhessen. This unique wine is intended to help compensate for the dramatic losses suffered by the Donnhoff family last spring due to frost. The lemony nose represents the calcareous clay terroir in Westhofen and pairs depth and intensity with limestone finesse and citric fruit aromas. The way to the style and flavors of the middle Nahe couldn't be any clearer. On the palate, this is a mouth-filling, very intense, savory, racy and persistently saline and finely tannic Riesling with remarkable intensity and length. It is here where the terroir dominates the producer style, at least the Westhofen character is more prominent here than Donnhoff's signature. This is a superb dry Riesling from Westhofen and highly recommended to any Riesling aficionado. ”
94pts — Stephan Reinhardt, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Order here
(Link)
II
Donnhoff 2024 Wachenheimer Riesling Trocken
limited
(Shelf Price: $96.00)
Offer: $82.00 (15%-off)
“Though I have no wish to make light of the misfortune that led to Cornelius Donnhoff turning to fruit from his compatriots vineyards, it is a bit of a dream to see so talented a winemaker turn his attention to fruit from outside his home region. This exquisitely delineated Wachenheimer Riesling (Pfalz) is redolent of ripe apricots and blossom of same, fresh tarragon and fennel seed, and the sandstone soils of the village. The palate is beautifully creamy with fine Pfalz density, and a long spicy finish. Immediately further sandstone notes are present along with bitter apricot, peach skin, and wonderful herbal touches. Delicious.”
— David
&
“Donnhoff's 2024 Wachenheimer Riesling trocken VDP.Ortswein is sourced from two vineyards (Gerumpel and Rechbachel) from Dr Burklin-Wolf in the Pfalz to help compensate for the dramatic losses suffered by the Donnhoff family last spring due to frost. The vineyard has been cultivated by Burklin, but the grapes were harvested and processed a la Donnhoff in Oberhausen/Nahe. The wine is pure, refined and crystalline on the nose and has a 100% Donnhoff character. Salinity and purity intertwine with ripe yellow fruit aromas and the character of colored sandstone. Round and juicy on the palate, this medium-bodied, more textured than crystalline dry Riesling has intense yellow plum flavors on the finish and aftertaste. The acidity is ripe and elegant, less savory and saline perhaps than in Niederhausen, Norheim or Schlossbockelheim but very elegant. Donnhoff's first Pfalz Riesling is a fascinating case study inside the Donnhoff world and doubtlessly an excellent Pfalz Riesling with Donnhoff's
signature. Let the wine breath for a while or at least give it some time to open up.”
93pts — Stephan Reinhardt, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Order here
(Link)
T
(Link) he Great Growths
III
Donnhoff 2024 Roxheimer Hollenpfad 'im Muhlenberg' Riesling GG
very limited - 2 bottles only
(Shelf Price: $225.00)
Offer: $195.00
“Such an elegant wine, with sensational balance of stony minerality and very fine peachy fruit. All the flavors of the peach from white to red via yellow. Super-long and elegant finish with great finesse. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold.”
96pts — Stuart Piggott, jamessuckling.com
&
“The 2024 Riesling Roxheimer Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg GG, from the very heart of this red Permian sandstone site, tingles with a sense of pepper on the nose. The palate is beautifully clear and luminous, only revealing tender notions of the usually herbal savor as shimmering touches of tansy and yarrow. This is like a sublimation of Riesling. It’s ultra-light, ultra-bright and so deeply rooted in stone.”
(93-95)pts — Anne Krebiehl, vinous.com
Order here
(Link)
IV
Donnhoff 2024 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling GG
very limited - 2 bottles only
(Shelf Price: $259.00)
Offer: $219.00
“Exceptionally refined and racy, this has terrific Amalfi lemon freshness and white peach fruit on the very focused, medium-bodied palate. Incredible drive in the super-long finish. The aromatic finesse of the wild flower, peach and Amalfi lemon nose is almost as great as the textural finesse. Incredible delicacy in the super-long finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold.”
98pts — Stuart Piggott, jamessuckling.com
&
“The 2024 Riesling Norheimer Dellchen GG was made in tiny quantities this year. It is from a porphyry site with shale cover. Flint, herb and lemon aromas come together in a most enticing combination. The palate is taut, svelte and luminous. Stony and fine, elegance runs through it like sunlight, heightening the citric freshness imbued with peppery, zesty savor. The 2024 is so linear and bright yet completely ripe. Cornelius says that they picked just 1,500kg per hectare.”
(94-96)pts — Anne Krebiehl, vinous.com
Order here
(Link)
V
Donnhoff 2024 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling GG
very limited - 2 bottles only
(Shelf Price: $269.00)
Offer: $229.00
“A masterpiece of power and elegance that has incredible lightness, yet with fantastic power in the finish. I love the delicate peach and peach blossom aromas. This carries the high acidity of the vintage beautifully, but your patience will be rewarded. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold.”
98pts — Stuart Piggott, jamessuckling.com
&
“The 2024 Riesling Niederhauser Hermannshohle GG is from vines planted in 1949 on shale with some calcareous inclusions. Just 1,500kg per hectare were harvested, about 80% less than usual. This is already luminous, even as a barrel sample, with sumptuousness, poise and grace. A ripe lemon juice note flows and stays the course in a straight line, taking over and filling out the mouth and mind. Its exquisite ripeness is depicted in the most svelte shape with crystalline clarity.”
(95-97)pts — Anne Krebiehl, vinous.com
Order here
(Link)
…
Please join us for a drink soon. Reservations preferred.
Bookings and after-6.00pm access: (03) 9419 3867
Tue. 11.00 am–6.00 pm
Wed.–Sat. 11.00 am–11.00 pm
—
***
watch this space
for
The Antipodean Wine Digest
with
Mahmood Fazal
&
David Murray
launching early August
If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.