Le Tuffeau Cahier

Nov 22, 2025

Falling into the Keber-Hole: Italy's Best White Wine

letuffeau.com (Link) Edi Keber Collio, Friuli Venezia-Giulia — “It’s back, baby. This was everyone’s favourite Italian white wine when we first launched Le Tuffeau at the start of the year. Re-tasting it has only driven our enthusiasm into the ionosphere. I suspect all you readers will enjoy it as much as we do. Please, responsibly, enjoy a bottle on a hot day accompanied by nothing more than a lazy zephyr.” — David — ~ please note : discounts are automatically applied at the digital check-out! ~ — Edi Keber 2021 Collio Bianco ‘Vino da Uve Autoctone’ (Shelf Price: $98.00) Offer Price: $89.00 “At first veiled by a slight reduction, this 2021 Collio Bianco starts delicately, as if far off — slightly spindly and wending a tracing line like the aurora from the far horizon, broadening and growing illuminatory with time until the whole dome of your perception is coruscating aromatically. Faintly fragrant at first, with finely-wrought aromas of jasmine-tending-frangipani, meyer lemon pith, mica chips, and a sweetly green element — not underripe, but reflective of spiny cucumbers, or perhaps rockmelon. Increased aeration exposes deeper-pitched notes that tend constantly towards filling out the aromatic profile. Peach and nectarine skin; then fresh nectarine; jalapeno and preserved green peppercorn; then white peach; then dried yellow peach as things deepen; then chamomile with stem ginger. We have arrived. The palate is singularly prismatic. This is a rare wine which possesses an expansive quality; I do not mean merely expanding in the palate, I mean its qualities extend almost exponentially beyond itself, that is, at first it appears you have got the measure of it in two dimensions, and then it adds a third. The palate is supple and elegant, with a sensation of tautness from one end to the other, with petrichor-like mineral notes at the core, wrapped in stony qualities, with fine, pinpoint phenolics skirting around the edge. Spectacular ripe yellow apple notes open the parade of flavours; these segue into ripe nectarines before bitter stonefruit skin elements add complexity. There is a fascinating green but not underripe note at play here, slightly elusive; I think of quinine and wild cucumbers as the best analogue. The finish: relatively compact space-wise, yet long, salty, and stony. This is one of the greatest Italian whites I have tried in a long time, and that includes anything out of Abruzzo. Stepping back from the above details, this wine is simply really really good.” — David “The 2021 Collio Bianco Vino da Uve Autoctone is a model of purity … with beautiful cut and clarity … a stunning and radiant vintage for Edi Keber’s Bianco, backed by the balance to mature gracefully for years to come.” 94 points — Eric Guido, vinous.com Order here (Link) — A note on Famiglia Keber … “Edi Keber’s single wine, the Collio Bianco Vino da Uve Autoctone, a blend of 70% Friulano, 15% Malvasia Istriana and 15% Ribolla Gialla, continues to make waves in Friuli. Keber is the only producer in the region who has chosen to take this drastic leap of faith, eliminating all mono-varietal wines from the portfolio to create a wine he believes captures the true tradition of the region. The 2021 lands in a string of amazing vintages and proves that the power of the blend, when done right, can bring balance to even the most difficult vintages. Fans of the style should make sure to check out son Kristian Keber’s project across the Slovenian border in the 2020 Brda. I believe these are two of the most interesting wines being made within these regions today.” — Eric Guido, vinous.com If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.

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