letuffeau.com
(Link)
~ 20%-off last bottles sale continues here
(Link) ~
Wagner-Stempel
Rheinhessen
—
“Lately we’ve been throwing around the expression ‘Keller-killer’ somewhat liberally.
Are we being harsh on the Keller wines? Perhaps. Though, given their price tag and straight-up inaccessibility to mere mortals, our harsh words seem only fair.
Are we being overly generous to the Rheinhessen’s less-celebrated but no-less-talented producers? Most certainly not.
Daniel Wagner produces wines that have continue to be grossly under-appreciated; these are true ‘insider wines’. Consider, reader, the dorky labels and gaudy gold capsules: these don’t help their case. But, under the cork (DIAM, thankfully, and screw-cap in the entry-level cuvees!), dwells unmistakably top-league Riesling, sitting comfortably alongside Wittmann, Keller & co. at the top of the Rheinhessen tree.
See Anne Krebiehl’s effusive praise below, if you won’t take my word for it. I can’t help but add that it is frankly obscene that such top-tier bottles can still be had for under $200.
Another Keller-killer … ? Sure, let’s run with that!”
— Nick
“Wagner-Stempel now plays in the top league of dry German wine—for Riesling; this has been the case for a while … Daniel and Cathrin Stempel (née Gerharz) have put this cooler area of Rheinhessen on the map. Climatically and geologically, this northwest corner of Rheinhessen forms a transition to the Nahe region. Their 26 hectares across more than 70 separate parcels of vineyards are all in and around Siefersheim on soils that are distinct for Rheinhessen, on much older formations that were islands sticking out of the Tertiary submersions that later formed Rheinhessen’s much younger limestones. There are three main sites: the Siefersheimer Heerkretz, despite being south facing, is an exposed, steep and stony site on a mix of Permian rhyolite and igneous formations like melaphyre and porphyry. The Siefersheimer Höllberg has similar soils but is a more sheltered site facing south and south-east. While only 2.5km apart, the Höllberg can be ripe almost two weeks earlier than the cooler
Heerkretz. The Binger Scharlachberg is a south-facing site of quartzite. The name refers to the ‘scarlet’ hue of the soil, colored red by iron oxide. Daniel Wagner was one of the pioneering youngsters in the ‘Message in a Bottle’ movement. Today, Wagner is one of Germany’s top winemakers and will celebrate the 30th anniversary of founding his estate and his 20th vintage of Heerkretz as Grosses Gewächs in 2023. His style is exacting and precise, bringing out the essential savoriness of these complex soils.”
— Anne Krebiehl MW, vinous.com
—
~ please note : discounts are automatically applied at the digital check-out! ~
—
I
Wagner-Stempel 2023 Siefersheimer Hollberg Riesling GG
(Shelf Price: $172.00)
Offer: $147.00
“The 2023 Riesling Siefersheimer Höllberg Grosses Gewächs is from a really dry site, so yields are kept to a minimum. But in the wet 2023 vintage, this sloped site drained beautifully and had no stress. It was fermented half in stainless steel and half in Stück and Halbstück. Green Seville orange and flint unite on the nose, initially tentatively, but with more air, this gets more intense. Fluid, slender, full-fruited, even exuberant stoniness defines the palate. While the wine just flows, an alluring undertow of salt adds an extra dimension that seemingly pulls you deep into the rock, all while remaining absolutely juicy. This is totally strait-laced, focused and expressive.”
96pts — Anne Krebiehl MW, vinous.com
Order here
(Link)
II
Wagner-Stempel 2023 Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling GG
(Shelf Price: $215.00)
Offer: $182.00
“The 2023 Riesling Siefersheimer Heerkretz Grosses Gewächs comes from around 20-year-old parcels on porphyry. Vivid bergamot and flint are deliciously heady on the nose, going straight to the sinuses and spelling pleasure. The palate is vivid, citric, tangy, pristine and so stony, salty and linear. A gentle sense of pith propels this forward, filling all the senses with heightened citrus tones. What a ride.”
97pts — Anne Krebiehl MW, vinous.com
Order here
(Link)
—
Readers, this is yet another reminder to get any Christmas orders in promptly. We are approaching the singularity of the final week out from The Big Day, and I advise with experience in this industry to avoid the big crunch that occurs with couriers, postal services, and the city. And remember: drink responsibly.
— David
If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.