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“Serious wine for the dinner table and guests looking for a (French) alternative to white burgundy.”
— Jancis Robinson MW, jancisronbinson.com
letuffeau.com
(Link)
‘White Claret’
close to
David’s Heart
but otherwise from
Henty, Victoria
Saint-Foy Cotes-de-Bordeaux
Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux
“Dear Readers, please do not think for a minute that I do not love fine Chardonnay in all its iterations; from mineral Chablis to weightlessly round Meursault via the granitic impulses of Beechworth to the gravelly nuances of Yarra Valley.
Yet, there are times when I feel Chardonnay has become a curse. It seems to be all people drink. To be sure, I rejoice when I hear ‘Chablis’ as a by-word for ‘dry white’. It means we, as a society, have come full circle from the days of Hunter Valley Chablis. However, I do wish tastes were more eclectic.
Enter, stage left: Dry White, or indeed for those of you playing at home, ‘White Claret’. The wines inspired by the Blanc Sec of Bordeaux, blends of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc that range, as below, from the vitally mineral to the rich and pleasing. Do drink, in humid climes, as I do: drink ‘White Claret’.
One commonality we find here, across the globe, is the banishing of the New Zealand, via the Loire, imago of Sauvignon Blanc as a lightly herbal and crisp soif/quaff. Rather, we find grapes picked fully ripe and hence expressing their terroir, we find lees aging and stirring, we find wines undergoing barrel elevage, wines resting in bottle at estate before release. In short, all the hall-marks of fine and ageable white wine. All this and drastically underpriced.
I am sure you, dear Readers, that are frequenters of this establishment and readers of this missive do not merely crave the ‘trendy’ vin de jour. Look to the wines below as your guide, your mark, to Spring and Summer drinking.”
— David
~ please note : discounts are automatically applied at checkout ~
The Australian
I
Crawford River 2024 ‘Beta’
(Shelf Price: $45.00)
Offer: $37.00
“The Crawford River 2024 ‘Beta’ is a wine of complete poise, certainly the most ‘settled’ release I have seen to date. I understand that winemaker and proprietor Belinda Thomson was justifiably proud of this release as well.
Fulsome and ripe, this wine opens with fragrant melon rind (think of those glorious ones in boxes, in Japan), yellow apples, white nuts, blackcurrant bud, and crushed citrus leaf all vying for attention. Complexity, weaving in an out of the main aromatics, comes in the form of caperberry, brine, Tahitian Lime, and crushed stone nuances. The palate is round, perhaps perfectly so; each section so smoothly segues to the next, and so softly chamfered the edges, that nothing feels out of place, and yet the wine feels deliberately shaped, sculpted over a wonderfully well ensconced (in fruit) line of acidity. Further yellow and green ripe apples, some white nectarine, lime curd, and fine gastronomic bitterness on the close. Simply delicious. Calls for fresh prawns, grilled mackerel, or nothing other than a hot day and a shady spot to sit & sip.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
The ‘Other Bordeaux’
II
Chateau Hostens-Picant 2019 Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux Blanc 'Cuvee des Demoiselles'
(Shelf Price: $79.00)
Offer: $64.00
“A full yet brilliant green-gold to the eye, this charming Ste-Foy blanc bursts from the glass with aromas of tarragon, elderflower, fresh yellow peach, and crushed stones. Indeed, this mineral note seems to be both the ‘core’ and the ‘wrapping’ to the aromatic profile; everything is bound by it and lodestone like it also leads one back to the centre. Faint touches of quince, dried honey, and mango add complexity. None of this prepares the imbiber for the palate, which is creamy and silken on opening before it positively explodes with coiled energy, bright acidity, and fine crushed-stone minerality. The finish: long and elegantly creamy, with a savoury close; framed by gently tugging phenolics and savoury nuances. I would give a run down of precise flavours but I keep finishing my glass based on the palate presence alone. Concentrating, one can expect further elderflower, mango, and peach; citrus peels; dabs of anise and stem ginger; and plenty of stone! The white equivalent of saying: old
school claret. Approach with caution, or turbot. Very fine.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
The 2eme Vin
III
l'Abeille de Fieuzal 2023 Pessac-Leognan Blanc
(Shelf Price: $115.00)
Offer: $94.00
“Fine texture, a hint of honey and something almost adorable about this wine! As there should be for the money. But it’s a hit. Greengage flavours and persistence. Serious wine for the dinner table and guests looking for a (French) alternative to white burgundy.”
17/20 — Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com
Order here
(Link)
The Grand Vin
IV
Chateau Latour-Martillac 2022 Pessac-Leognan Blanc Graves Cru Classe
(Shelf Price: $205.00)
Offer: $164.00
“A blend of 52% Sauvignon Blanc and 48% Semillon, the 2022 Chateau Latour-Martillac Blanc delivers a chalky, mineral-driven nose with a kiss of reduction, crushed citrus, and mint. Rivetingly pure and full of energy, this aged for 15 months in oak barrels and should drink beautifully for 15+ years.”
95pts — Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com
Order here
(Link)
The Magnum
V
Les Arums de Lagrange 2019 Bordeaux Blanc Sec
(Shelf Price: $315.00)
Offer: $252.00
“Light yellow-green, silver reflections. Soft notes of verbena and caramel, nuances of chamomile. Juicy, elegant and well-balanced, shows freshness, subtle sweetness, yellow tropical fruit; a fine, silky food wine.”
93pts — Peter Moser, Falstaff Magazine
Order here
(Link)
…
Please join us for a drink soon. Reservations preferred.
Bookings and after-6.00pm access: (03) 9419 3867
Tue. 11.00 am–6.00 pm
Wed.–Sat. 11.00 am–11.00 pm
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If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.