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letuffeau.com
(Link)
UPCOMING EVENTS
Saturday 05/09
2.00-4.00pm
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A Very Special Tasting
with
Bridget Mac
Werkstatt
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Launching the Limited Print Run
of
N O I R
on labour, love and loss.
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Sandro de Bruno
Montecchia di Crosara, Veneto (It.)
“It appears I have only ever drunk exceptional Soave, largely from Pieropan and La Battistelle. Consequently, I was surprised when reading that the region has become synonymous with bulk wine; English and Italian commentators make many remarks to this effect. The thrust of writers such as Ian d’Agata, Jancis Robinson, and Walter Speller is that few producers rise above the milieu but those that do produce some of Italy’s greatest white wines.
What strikes me at this juncture, dear Readers, is that one can readily find and consume a nation’s top white wines without selling an organ.
Certainly, this was my conclusion and excitement when I first sampled the Sandro de Bruno wines. Indeed, I was frankly shocked when I realised the price. ‘Only?’ was my reaction.
These are immensely energetic wines with arresting herbal and balsam aromas in line with their variety, Garganaga, and terroir, volcanic. Indeed, there is something of the hand of Janus on these wines; one bottling, in stainless steel, the other in neutral French barrique. The wines take similar terroir, similar picking times, and similar approaches in the winery and change the maturation vessel.
This is more than an intellectual game, there is far too much pleasure to be had in comparing them. I heartily recommend such an exercise, which will naturally require me to compel you, dear Readers, to purchase both wines!”
— David
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“As good as some of the wines made on the first two soil types [noncalcareous alluvial plains, and calcareous plains] can be be, there is no doubt that the two best sites on which to grow Garganega grapes are the hillsides. Volcanic (basalt-rich) hills are the most common in the eastern part of the denomination, east of an imaginary line that connects the town of Soave to Monte Bastia. Vineyards lie at elevations of to to 550 metres above sea level and can have extreme 70 percent gradients, and they are some of the oldest of the denomination. (About 50percent of the vineyards are over thirty years of age).
Soave Classico wines from these soils can be rich, spicy, and ripe but with definite floral nuance, plus a strong saline note at the finish. The wines also often hint at a balsamic nuance due to methyl salicylate, a molecule that gives off notes of underbrush and resin and that, as we have seen, is found in the Garganega grapes. Sweet spices such as cinnamon are also discernible, thanks to the benzenoid content of the grapes. Most importantly, these are some of the thickest, richest Garganega wines of all.”
Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs — Ian d’Agata
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I
Obverse
Sandro de Bruno 2022 Soave 'Colli Scaligeri'
limited
Offer: $55.00
100% Garganega from a 35 year old vineyard in Montecchia at 200-300m ASL, cold macerated for 18 hours before fermentation in stainless steel, then ageing in stainless steel on fine lees for 18 months (with weekly battonage) before bottling. Cork.
“Pulled cork and poured. Immediately expressive with a depth of dried wax and honey at the core wreathed in meadow flowers, cut herbs, and chamomile. There are complexifying notes of crushed rock and preserved citrus, curry leaf, and fennel seed. The palate is streamlined, waxy initially in texture before a huge burst of pleasingly chalky phenolic extract surges across the cheeks, leaving like a tideline streaks of salinity. Bitter citrus peels, some crushed lemon leaf; wonderful masses of lime zest and bergamot, some kumquat, and hints of tartly sweet peach. A delight, utterly fresh.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
II
Reverse
Sandro de Bruno 2022 Soave Superiore 'Monte San Piero'
limited
Offer: $75.00
100% Garganega from a 30 year old vineyard in Monte Calvarina at 300m ASL, cold macerated for 18 hours before fermentation in third passage French tonneaux then ageing on fine lees for 18 months (with weekly battonage in the first 6 months) before bottling.
“Altogether more mellow, though necessarily richer; an emphasis on the complete gamut of yellow stone fruit. Consequently, the aromatics run from slightly underripe, green apricot through to rich, sweet peaches and nectarines. Hints of dried pear, melted wax, and autolysis add complexity. The palate is round, with elegantly enmeshed acidity and phenolics; though they still make their considerable presence felt. The line of acid cuts the ripe fruit like a knife. Bitter apricot, nectarine; beeswax and touches of honey; tart pineapple. A stunning wine, for thought.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
~ also available ~
III
Pieropan 2024 Soave Classico ‘La Rocca’
limited
(Shelf Price: $109.00)
Offer: $90.00
100% Garganega; aged in 500L barrels with a small portion of the fruit picked affected by botrytis. Vines approaching 50 years-old.
“The only oak-inflected cuvee at the estate. Aged in 100% used tonneaux, both French and Slavonian. Superb aromas of pistachios, peaches and dried mangoes. Broad and expansive, yet funneled into a vortex of tension by freshness that sublimates any sense of obvious power. A wonderful expression of a warmer vintage that suits perfectly this compelling site. Drink or hold.”
96pts — James Suckling, jamessuckling.com
Order by reply email, please
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Please join us for a drink soon. Reservations preferred.
Bookings and after-6.00pm access: (03) 9419 3867
Tue. 11.00 am–6.00 pm
Wed.–Sat. 11.00 am–11.00 pm
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If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.