letuffeau.com
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Entropy Wines
Trafalgar South - Gippsland, Victoria
“Ryan Ponsford is a humble alchemist.
Hidden away in an unusual corner of Gippsland and inspired by the wild sage of those rolling hills, Bill Downie, he crafts precisely detailed wines with little care for trends.
The last few years, since a gift of fruit from his mentor (Bill), have seen him work quietly to set up his own vineyard at Trafalgar, and revitalise two near-by sites: one at Willow Grove and the other in Warragul, rescuing both from near ruin.
There are no tricks (or pet. nat.) here. Wild ferments in oak; old barrels for elevage; “simple winemaking”. The hard work is all achieved in the vineyard: in the case of the Willow Grove site (Savagnin), the vines had to be carefully retrained to re-distribute sap flow, and the soil regenerated; for the Warragul site (Sauvignon Blanc Semillon), the entire vineyard needed to be reinvigorated, again with careful attention to soil health. Everything here is organic.
There is subtle magic at work here in one of the coldest and wettest pockets of Australia’s coldest and wettest wine region. Despite the huge challenges of vineyard repair, disease, and weather, Ryan continues to craft genuine and beautiful wines. Warmly recommended.”
— David
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Entropy Wines 2023 Gippsland Savagnin
(Shelf Price: $59.00)
Offer: $52.00
“It has been an excellent week (few years?) for Australian Savagnin. Upcoming reports will document bountiful offerings. This may be from some of the older Savagnin vines in the country which begs the question: who in their right mind was planting Savagnin (even if they presumed to be planting Albarino*) in Warragul 20-30 years ago? How thankful we are now for this vine material!
Fresh and vibrant nose, akin to the new wave of topped up, delicate Savagnins emerging from Jura at present. Green heirloom apples, white tea, fresh meadow herbs all abound on first pour with more deeply pitched elements coming into play with oxygen: cashews, white orchard fruit (quince), and citrus zests. The palate is has bracing acidity and salinity, contrasting with a full and almost waxy presence that remains nicely compact in a medium bodied frame. There is good citrus confiture here together with something exotic akin to candied ginger; beeswax, further cashews, and zest on the lingering salty finish. Fine.”
— David
Order here
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Entropy Wines 2024 Gippsland Sauvignon Blanc Semillon
(Shelf Price: $72.00)
Offer: $61.00
“Vin Blanc Sec de Gippsland. This will certainly appeal to the Sorrenberg mavens.
Charming, fuller-weight rendition of SSB. Beautifully delineated olfactory elements here while still nascent: ripe yellow peach, thyme and marjoram, and almond blossom. Encircling these more orotund delights there is an altogether slighter wreath of grass-clippings and tarragon, and some saline minerality in support. The palate has a pleasing plumpness, ample fruit never tipping into opulence courtesy of the cool-climate phenolics. Further ripe yellow orchard fruit abounds, together with green hazelnuts and stone-fruit kernel/almond meal. Freshness arrives in a bracing wave of fine acidity, buoyed by slight lemongrass and pink grapefruit characters on the close. Delicious.
I cannot help be tempted by the Warragul Burrowing Cray (engaeus sternalis ) on the front … but know better than to dabble in protected species. Far better a pairing with the plentiful Southern Coastal Cray (jasus edwardsii).”
— David
Order here
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*Urban legends (and verified accounts) abound of Albarino being planted in great quantities across the country in the early 2000s … which was later discovered to be Savagnin.
If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.