letuffeau.com
(Link)
~ “Because Cahors is a vin de garde, producers need to carry substantial stocks. A vine takes five or six years to produce AOC quality wine. Add two years at least before it can be bottled, and already a vigneron must wait …” ~
Wines of South-West France — Paul Strang
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Clos de Gamot
Cahors
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“In a recently previous missive, Readers, I discussed the wines of the Vic Bilh noting the twin scourges of phylloxera and 20th Century downturns resulted in the wines becoming vins confidentiels - that is, known only to a few insiders.
The same fate nearly befell the wines made in the vineyards that run along the course of the River Lot: Cahors.
Famed for years, certainly praised over Bordeaux and Burgundy in the Mediaeval states prior to France, the ‘black wines’ of Cahors derive purely from Malbec, confusingly known as Auxerrois locally. These wines make the Tannat derived Madiran, from Vic Bilh, look positively Burgundian.
Such wines should delight Claret-lovers and those craving cool weather Automne drinking; not to mention those looking to stash bottles in the cellar, as they handsomely reward a long, cool slumber underground.
While Cahors is experiencing a resurgence through youthful and energised producers making slightly more off-piste wine, like Maya et Nicolas at La Calmette, there is certainly room for the echt-traditional. Producers do not get more traditional that Clos de Gamot.
The Famille Jouffreau have been custodians of their farm since 1610*. Their famed enclosure is largely planted with very old vignes centenaires that immediately post-date phylloxera: around 1885. The wines are aged for 18m in old foudres. Even the younger vines are older than most plantings in Bordeaux!
The vineyards are naturally pesticide and herbicide free, densely littered with pebbles, quartz, and and Graves-like gravels dusted in light alluvial soils deposited by the nearby Lot.
All in all, this sounds like, and truly is, a recipe for structured and deeply pitched wines to warm us on cold Autumn days. I hope my below notes amply convey my enthusiasm as the weather turns on us outside.”
— David
*(making the Alsatian Trimbachs (1626) look positively parvenu!)
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~ please note : discounts are automatically applied at the digital check-out! ~
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I
Clos de Gamot 2022 Cahors
(Shelf Price: $65.00)
Offer: $56.00
“Black wine by reputation, though in reality a fully opaque ruby tending violet in the glass. No luridity. An introspective yet not brooding nose with a core of Prune d’Ente, steeped black tea, and bitter dark chocolate; then roasting tray, maduro cigars, and black cherries; surrounding are echoes of loamy soil and bergamot. Aeration brings powerful waves of blackberry preserve and Sienese panforte (including the overtones of almond essence); then, strangely, marine influenced freshness with iodine and Latakia tobacco. The palate, surprisingly fresh and medium-bodied without stewed density, is charmingly sullen and framed by serious and mildly rustic tannins; tarragon and sage abound, blood orange, and a core of crushed fresh blackberries. Repeating spice notes on the close. One cannot imagine a more classical Cahors. Fine.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
also available
II
Clos de Gamot 2010 Cahors
(Shelf Price: $139.00)
Offer: $125.00
“Powerful yet elegant wine, showing the beauty and generosity of 2010 vintage, with a fleshy and concentrated palate. Incredible balance thanks to Gamot unique terroir. This wine features earthy tannins, dark fruit (plum/cherry), and a distinct mineral/iron edge.”
— Thomas Gisbert, Importer & Wine Confidant
Order here
(Link)
III
Clos de Gamot 2020 Cahors 'Cuvee des Vignes Centenaires'
(Shelf Price: $132.00)
Offer: $119.00
“Infinitely deeper; more reticent, saturated, deep, potent, brooding, … than the standard estate wine from Clos de Gamot, this 2020 Cahors from ‘Vignes Centenaires’ initially unwinds in the glass with slightly highly-toned and nuanced aromas of sweet black plums, dried herbs, kirsch, dried orange rind, spices, and dried rose petals. As it takes on air it starts to close down, a development I always find distinctly pleasing as it bodes most well for the wine’s future. Vigorous swirling coaxes nostalgic echoes of velvety Rhododendron blossom, rose-bush sous bois, Cantonese Traditional Chinese Medicine Shop (think Sheung Wan, HK); as well as a faint interweaving of cooling, mineral notes akin to bromides and quartz. Phenomenal.
The palate is taut and tensile, medium bodied but framed by massive structural tannins that loom like the columns at Karnak. Full and bracing at the opening, the wine is channelled through these daunting tannins in the middle palate, then settles to lower in the mouth towards the rear. The finish, very long and placid, is laced with saline minerality; the sensation here is very fine and elegant with repeating dark fruit, spice, and peel notes.
The flavour profile is still tightly wound; the overall impression is one of greater freshness and more elevated tones than the standard estate wine. Sliced cherries and crushed blackberry, some cassis; then nori and fresh bay; blood orange and cassia bark. Very fine indeed.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
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If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.