Domaine Charvin
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Charvin is my one true love in the Rhone (South & North). To be honest, I have encountered less-than-perfect wines from them in the past; but I open more of their bottles than almost any other producer and the rate of dim bottles is lower than elsewhere in the region. The quality level across the board when the bottles are pristine is simply spectacular.
A resolutely traditional producer in Chateauneuf, Charvin produces very few wines each year. There is no diluting of the range into mid-level or premium bottlings; Charvin make one of the best Cotes-du-Rhone wines (le Poutet — a baby Chateauneuf in all respects) and a sole cuvee of Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge. The tradition at this estate is to conduct both fermentation and elevage entirely in concrete tanks. This has been mirrored in a number of other domaines, but for me Charvin remains the yardstick amongst these and indeed that against which all CdP is measured.
Aromatically, Charvin has an edge over the appellation. The wine is hypnotic from first pour; often displaying dried petals, red floral aromas, subtle spice notes, and a freshness and lift akin to cut mint/green herbs. On the palate, the hallmarks in great (warm) vintages such as 2022 include deep black cherry notes, classic garrigue — especially dried sage and thyme - as well as mineral nuances of broken river stone and some iron ore. These should be classic CdP organoleptic qualities, though we unfortunately see them present in too few bottlings. Even in warm vintages, Charvin always remains a veritably Burgundian wine with round, satiny tannins, and in cooler vintages like 2021, Charvin performs and creates lilting, ethereal expressions of its wine. I cannot contain my enthusiasm for these wines.
— David
“Chateauneuf may lack for actual chateaux, but it's still a place where you property speaks to your self-view. In this case, Laurent Charvin's no-frills cellar, a glorified garage on the northern-western edge of the appellation, couldn't speak more clearly: no bullshit at this address. The ruse might be that Charvin and his father, Gerard, before him were among the few producers (Rayas being another) that drew acclaim during the era of ambition ... while never falling prey to stylistic temptations. Somehow, the wines remain an insiders treat, their prices never quite spiraling. If you can't drink Rayas, Charvin's wines will similarly remind you of the timelessness of great grenache.”
— Jon Bonné, The New French Wine
I
Domaine Charvin 2022 Chateauneuf-du-Pape
(Shelf Price: $198.00)
Offer: $179.00
6-pack : $1,032.00 ($172/bottle)
Magnum: $398.00
“This astonishing Chateauneuf-du-Pape has the enormous aromatic complexity and subtlety that we expect from Grand Cru red Burgundies. Enormous concentration and ample richness on the palate, and the structure behind this is no less impressive. Stacks of very fine tannins. The black and red berry fruit washes over you in a huge wave in the breathtaking licorice finish. So much drive and freshness. Enormous aging potential. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
98 points - Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
“Another highlight this year, Charvin's 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape exhales a complex, floral bouquet of violet, rose petals, dark cherries, spices and menthol intertwined with delicate garrigue notes. Medium to full-bodied and fine-boned with a layered core of fruit, bright acids and velvety tannins, it finishes long and ethereal with a delicate tannic frame thanks to whole bunches. This blend of 80% Grenache, 7% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre and the rest of Vaccarèse and Counoise is one of my favorites this year.”
94-96 points - Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
Order here
(Link) / Magnum
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If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.