Gembrook Hill
Yarra Valley
— Ethereal, almost otherworldly Pinot Noir —
I have become tired of prefacing emails and comments to visitors in store that "I do not like Australia Pinot Noir". Indeed, I find myself on the defensive quite often. There are a few producers I admire; most of them in Victoria.
Gembrook Hill is one of them.
The talented Andrew Marks is known to some of you as the producer of Australia's finest and most Champagnoise sparkling wine, not to mention his work with spirits (he founded Melbourne Gin Company). He also is an excellent and exacting Pinot Noir specialist. I am very excited to share my enthusiasm for this boutique Yarra estate with you. I visited Andrew the Thursday just passed and on a stunning, sunny Winter’s day toured the vineyard in the tray of his ute. He stopped occasionally to root out weeds, point out his ongoing pruning and grafting regime, and to discuss salient elements of the plantings.
Referring to it as a “Yarra” estate can cause some consternation. The top crest of Gembrook Hill’s vineyard marks the end of the Yarra Valley GI (Geographical Indication) and the start of Gippland. Outside of convention, is Gembrook Hill to be considered Yarra Valley? Absolutely. The estate falls on classic ‘Upper Yarra’ red/brown volcanic soils and though cool, is sheltered from Westernport sea-breezes by the hills around it.
Len Evans' small note below outlines the inception of Gembrook Hill. Not much has changed since except that the vines are older and everything is managed by Ian's son, Andrew. The estate remains, small and boutique, untouched by fads or hype. It only falls prey to the hazards of difficult vintages given its liminal position yet even in this regard it retains its signature transparency. I refer not only to the delicate, indeed almost frail, colouring of the wine, but the transparency of touch: this is a wine in which vintage, winemaking, old vines, fruit from careful viticulture are refracted with utmost precision. - David
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"In 1983, Melbourne dentist Dr. Ian Marks bought some cleared land in Launching Place Road, Gembrook, 40km south-east of Melbourne, and planted 4 hectares of bines. This is the most southerly vineyard in the Yarra Valley and also the most elevated so Dr Marks chose early ripening varieties, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir." - Complete Book of Australian Wine, Len Evans
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Gembrook Hill 2024 Yarra Valley Pinot Noir
(Shelf Price: $74.00)
Offer: $68.00
“The 2024 Pinot Noir from Gembrook bewitches both the eye and the nose, first seducing the drinker with a stunningly pellucid and pure ruby hue. Many roses and rosatos are deeper hued than this wine. Though still nascent, enchanting aromas of raspberries, cherries, Lincoln rose, and candied peel waft from the glass. Revisiting this wine the following day the tension initially apparent between some new oak and whole bunch feels resolved, and there is a delicate sensation of ‘luminosity’ to the wine. Some upper Yarra sous bois has emerged with air. The aromatics feel very unforced. The palate is remarkably refined, satiny and round with delicate yet youthfully vibrant tannin. Bright raspberry and cherry feel clearly defined in wine, alongside candied petals and peel, some streaks of minerality, and a long spice inflected finish. A pleasing bitterness, akin to orange rind, emerges as the wine fans out in its final stages on the palate. A wine of great great and reserve. Exceptional.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.