letuffeau.com
(Link)
~ “I cannot think of a better orange wine than this; this is it: the only orange wine I not only am willing to drink, but love.” ~
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Edi & Kristian Keber
Collio (Italy) & Dobrovo (Slovenia)
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“Where do I even start with the wines of Kristian (and pere, Edi) Keber? There is such a wealth of background information to be condensed I am tempted to step back and let my notes, and then your senses, tell the story.
Kristian stepped into the family winery, for his father Edi, in 2008. Together with his father they worked to remove non-autochthonous (ie.: non-local) varieties from the vineyard; this left them with Toaci Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, and Malvasia (Istriana). Every other 'introduced' element was removed from the vines as well, and the Kebers are now certified Organic and Biodynamic (Demeter). Such certification does not fully convey the scope of their commitment to hands-off farming; a quick internet search should reveal to you the incredible Eden of their property, untamed but never feral. Insects and wild flora all thrive amid the rows, with the farm animals wandering and fertilising au naturale.
In the winery, however, everything is nearly pristine. The new cellars, finished in 2022, appear monastic in their spartan design and cleanliness. I cannot stress enough how purity and energy are the focal points here in winemaking; I have looked at a number of vintages of these wines and never seen the faults of Volatile Acidity (VA), Brettanomyces ('Bret'), and lactic acid bacteria ('Mousiness') that riddle other famous wines of the region.
I truly mean it when I say, dear readers, that these are some of my favourite and most enjoyed wines at home. The Collio Bianco is beautifully fresh and elegant now, and the 'Brda' is ... well ... the only orange wine I drink and enjoy. Quid pluram dicam, judices?”
— David
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~ please note : discounts are automatically applied at the digital check-out! ~
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“Keber’s passion and exceptional wines are inciting change throughout the region.”
— Eric Guido, vinous.com
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Edi Keber 2023 Collio Bianco 'Vino da Uve Autoctone'
(Shelf Price: $99.00)
Offer: $84.00
“Spicy and pleasantly herbal from the first tilt of the glass, the 2023 Collio Vino da Uve Autoctone evolves with notes of musky lime, wildflowers, nectarines and wet stones. It is deeply textured, nearly creamy in feel, yet still finessed, with fresh acidity and ripe pit fruits underscored by crisp mineral tones. It cleans up beautifully, leaving an air of minty herbs and hints of green apple that add cheek-pinching tension. This is a gorgeous interpretation of the Edi Keber style, yet it's best to wait another year or two for it to flesh out.”
94pts — Eric Guido, vinous.com
“I have little to add to Eric Guido's review, concurring with his appraisal qualitatively and quantitatively. Perhaps noting an iota more olfactory detail in the form of melted wax, coriander seed, and a hint of salty lemon sweets. The palate strikes me as fleshier than proceeding vintages but never lacks for acidity and phenolic grip. The best iteration of this wine yet? I think so. Delightful repeating herbal and peach-iced tea quality on the close; coriander, mango, and peach-skin.”
— David
Order here
(Link)
~ please note : the below wine is limited and available only by reply email ~
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Kristian Keber 2022 ‘Brda’
Offer: $165.00
“Akin to looking at the reverse-side of a coin, with the Collio Bianco being the obverse. A sultry golden colour, fully clear with no turbidity. The barest flicker of VA, welcome and giving lift to the aromatics present, brings a wave of salted and dried peach, with all the earthy concentration this implies, dried coriander seed, liquorice root, cassia bark, toasted garam masala, fenugreek, and dried bay ... I could go on. Fruit feels secondary until a long lacuna in the glass brings suitable aeration; dabs of beeswax surround a core of ripe apricot, peach, and preserved lemon. The palate is silken and glossily textured at first, before serious tannins emerge on the long and savoury close; the finish is slightly chalky and demands food. Succulent yellow stonefruit abounds, along with mineral salts, bay, and curry spices. I cannot think of a better orange wine than this; this is it: the only orange wine I not only am willing to drink, but love.”
— David
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The new Le Tuffeau
2026
This week, by the glass
Joshua Cooper 2024 Central Victoria Chardonnay ‘Dash Farms’
Mas Jullien 2023 Languedoc Rose
Sette 2021 Nizza
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As mentioned above Le Tuffeau is open for 2026. We are still an eccentric fine wine shop on the second floor of the Nicholas Building. What is different: we have a new Liquor Licence permitting on premises consumption.
Snacks: coming soon.
Please join us for a drink soon. Reservations preferred.
Bookings and after-6.00pm access: (03) 9419 3867
Tue. 11.00 am–6.00 pm
Wed.–Sat. 11.00 am–11.00 pm
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If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.