letuffeau.com
(Link)
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Domaine de la Borde
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Julien Mareschal
Pupillon, Jura
“There seems to be a new producer jumping out of the Jura every month … with most people scrambling to get their hands on the bottles just from one Instagram post or one tag they've seen ... where does it end?
Thankfully for you, here at Le Tuffeau we have road tested some of these with varying results and come to our own conclusions.
One such producer who certainly did not come down with the last shower is Julien Mareschal.
Julien has been in the epicentre of Pupillin since the early 2000's, well before the region was white hot and has been making quintessential Jura heat for many many moons. You can trust us, they're good.
We've unanimously given the tick of approval to his Domaine de la Borde and hope you will find much satisfaction in these bottles.”
— Will
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“I am a Jura sceptic. I have had some spectacular bottles from a handful of producers … and a heap of duds. The sense of woe here is compounded by the fact that prices seem frankly absurd these days. Risky bottles riddled with Brettanomyces or ‘Mouse’, or worse: filled with simply uninteresting juice?
No thanks.
Domaine de la Borde left me astonished. Here at last was such purity of vision, such Jurassic statement with a lightness of touch. An elegance allied to a pleasing rusticity that left me quiet for a few moments, stunned by quality of the wine. Below, the Savagnin is simply remarkable and has to be tried to be believed. The Poulsard, and you may never read these words from me again, is delicious: fragrant, tea-like, and with lacy tannins.
Count me converted … in this case.”
— David
“Please will someone mention that prices are reasonable for the Jurassic World?”
— Nick
I
Domaine de la Borde 2021 Arbois Pupillin Savagnin 'Foudre a Canon Nature'
(Shelf Price: $175.00)
Offer: $148.00
“100% Savagnin. Grown on a combination of deep grey and blue marls on a 30% slope at an altitude of 400m. 50% partial destemming before pressing. Fermentation in foudre with 20 months aging on lees.
Brilliant yellow gold and straw. When you see wines like this it makes you ask why more producers don’t make more topped up Savagnin. Strikingly pure nose with a sparkling minerality, bright high toned white and yellow fruits and vanilla and cream lees aged notes. The palate is so juicy, succulent and long flavoured. Electrifying Savagnin minerality carrying the concentrated lemon, grapefruit, vanilla and almond flavours into the horizon.”
— Importer’s Notes
Order here
(Link)
II
Domaine de la Borde 2023 Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay 'Cote de Caillot'
(Shelf Price: $159.00)
Offer: $135.00
“100% Chardonnay. Positioned on the highest terroir of the domaine at 500m altitude in soil of clay-limestone composition. Manual harvest and partial destemming of 30% before pressing, fermented in barrels and aged on lees for 12 months.
The limestone shines through the wine with crushed stone and lime mortar notes balanced with delicate ripe yellow citrus and hint of stonefruit, and freshly ground almonds. Very different again. On the palate its all cool stony minerality with supreme finesse and focus. Succulent grapefruit and sweet lime with long, long mineral acid drive. White spices. Next level. Julien’s Grand Cru?”
— Importer’s Notes
Order here
(Link)
III
Domaine de la Borde 2023 Arbois Pupillin 'Plous'saperlipopette'
(Shelf Price: $149.00)
Offer: $126.00
“100% Ploussard (Poulsard). Grown in the deep red marls facing south-west at 300m above sea level. Hand-harvested, semi-carbonic maceration (80% whole bunch, 20% destemmed) of about 10 days. Aged in stainless steel for 10 months.
Hauntingly pale garnet with some ruby highlights. Slight reduction adds frisson before aeration reveals fragrance-like aromatics of rosehip tea, crushed wild strawberry, broken rock, and a faint trace of fresh herbs. The palate is very light, possessing filigreed tannins allied to a fresh bead of acidity and a fine line of slightly chalky minerality. Further faint and delicate red fruits and herbs, indeed some white fruits present, sweet cured fat, and a smoky yet fine mix of steeped Lapsang Souchong and Wulong teas on the close. Ethereal, and slightly emotional. Deserves a more serious name. Very fine.”
— David
“Anyone that can pronounce the name of this Cuvee deserves a bottle?”
— Nick
Order here
(Link)
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The above Jura wines are certainly worthy of attention. The focus and elegance here is second-to-none (really) in the region.
That being said …
… next week Genevat Domaine release emails will go out. Watch this space. Sign your friends up.
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If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.