Barbera raised on its rightful pedestal: Sette '21 Nizza

letuffeau.com (Link) Sette Nizza Monferrato (Piemonte) — “Nizza is the highest-quality Barbera d’Asti there is. … Nizza wines are made from 100 percent Barbera grapes grown in a small subzone of the Monferrato, under stricter production and viticultural guidelines. … Importantly, the majority of Barbera vines in the DOCG are rather old (fifty years or more). All of which means Nizza is potentially the best and most serious of all Barbera d’Asti wines. Of course, there are problems, too: for one, many Nizza wines tend to be over-oaked …” Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs — Ian d’Agata “Barbera has a reputation of the ugly duckling in Piemonte. Like me, the middle-child. Between the arch, priestly Nebbiolo; and the youthful and colourful Dolcetto. Awkward, to boot. Salt and vinegar chips in the glass. Nebbiolo for those who like tannin, alcohol, and acid; with none of the fruit and perfume. Clunky. These cheap pot shots, generalisations about the grape and its expressions, are generally correct. They are compounded by the recent creation of the Nizza DOCG for 100% Barbera wines ... and a corresponding Riserva category, including longer oak-aging requirements. As with other such categories in Italian wine (here's looking at you, Chianti Classico Riserva!), this feels like an excuse for producers to throw more at the wine: higher ripeness, greater extraction, and more new oak. These wines attain high scores from international critics for whom flashiness in a blind-tasting exercise trumps 'true' regional or varietal expression, and the consumer is ultimately left with vulgar wines that could be made elsewhere. How to escape this feedback loop of bad wine? Through left-of-centre, thoughtful producers such as Sette ("7"). The stunning Barbera below is from the 2021 vintage, already praised as a 'new classic' without undue heat; sees an 'old school' maceration of 30 days on skins, and then is elevaged in concrete then old Stockinger 3000L barrels, 1 year each. This is a wine for lovers of finesse, for eccentrics that want to see Barbera raised on its rightful pedestal as a great grape of Piemonte. If you have enjoyed Paitin or Fenocchio, then this is the Barbera for you.” — David — ~ please note : discounts are automatically applied at the digital check-out! ~ — Sette 2021 Nizza (Shelf Price: $98.00) Offer: $79.00 “Pouring dark ruby with hints of garnet, this 2021 Nizza from Sette slowly unwinds in the glass to reveal a surprisingly lithe and lifted core of crushed black cherries, kirsch, and prunus blossom, enveloped in increasingly sensual layers of sweet blue fruits, panforte, and blood orange. There is an elusive, herbal character in the background somewhere between bay and menthol and eucalypt along with discreet earthy, mineral nuances. The palate is fresh and medium bodied, with mouth-watering acidity before a long finish that alternates between silken fruit and chalky mineral inflections. Red cherries, cranberry, cedar and balsam nuances, myrtifolia and bay, and notions of bitter dark chocolate all make their presence felt in the compact yet long parade of flavours. The complexifying herbal flavours, the myrtifolia, orange peel, and menthol notes provide much interest and nuance, ahead of other examples of the variety. I note with particular relish that it is the fresh and the structural elements here: a wave of acid and briny limestone in the first third of the palate followed by a long tapering off, tannin keeping all the elements in check and 'contained', before repeating chalky presence finishes the journey; that make this Barbera unique and special. Very special.” — David Order here (Link) — If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.