Stefan Vetter 2021 Sylvaner - "must be tasted to be believed"

/ letuffeau.com (Link) Stefan Vetter Gambach, Franken (Germany) — “I will leave all description to my note below. A wine that you, dear Readers, should try.” — David ~ please note : discounts are automatically applied at checkout ~ The Wine Stefan Vetter 2021 Sylvaner Trocken ‘Muschelkalk’ (Shelf Price: $102.00) Offer: $79.00 “The 2021 Sylvaner 'Musselkalk' from Stefan Vetter is simply one of the most exciting wines I have tried in a very long time. Indeed, for all the lengthy description below it is essentially a ‘bodily’ as opposed to a ‘cerebral’ wine; it is a wine that demands an ‘erotics’ rather than ‘poetics’. Wet limestone, broken chalk and sea shells, and warm stones abound on the nose presenting, as with everything in this wine, different facets of the same aspect; initially, as described, this first aspect is one of minerality. Behind, veil-like, there are floral and blossom aromas with pear orchard, meadowflowers, cut herbs, and something altogether more exotic, perhaps frangipane flower. Then, unexpectedly as the beholder has been contemplating these more cerebral elements, the sheer fleshiness of the wine makes itself apparent: yellow citrus pulp and pith, white very ripe pear, coriander seed, pineapple sage. There is so much energy here the wine practically bristles or buzzes, like the eyes adjusting to watching insects in a field in spring: only when the eyes glaze over and loose focus, then do all the minutiae reveal themselves. The palate is simply incredible; there is no sense of directionality here as the wine seems to expand; the acidity feels multifaceted in profile, every surface is touched. Chalky and intensely mineral, there is initially a sensation of austerity which retreats both the sides of the mouth and somehow around the teeth, leaving in the middle of the tongue a wonderful silken fleshiness. There is a burst of the distinctly tropical, with light passionfruit notes inflecting pear, white grapefruit with its attendant brown spice qualities, pomelo; oyster liqueur and shell, coriander seed and green cardamom; some white pepper. Repeating notes of wax and leatherwood abound on the long, resonant finish. I am simply off the rails, giddy about this wine. It must be tasted to be believed - everything about it just stirs sheer excitement in me. Excellent.” — David Order here (Link) “Trying the above wine I was immediately put in mind of the craft of Hans-Peter Ziereisen, a figure that looms large in the landwein movement in Germany. This movement, started in Baden, aims making wine that reflects its terroir but in no way conforms to the stipulations of organisations or the government required to declare higher regional classifications, ie: region, village, vineyard-region, etc. The wines can be proudly specific while being labelled generically. Hans-Peter Ziereisen is also renowned for working in both a wholly unorthodox manner yet one that feels utterly traditional, in the most antediluvian fashion, in German winemaking. His wines are simly pressed to usually larger format close-grain German Oak (often Assmann coopered ovaloid barrels) where they are left on lees, unsulphered, for two sometimes three winters. Whatever happens, happens. This is both radical and utterly traditional. Though I am unsure of a formal connection, the wines of Stefan Vetter to me seemed connected to the wines of Hans-Peter Zieireisen. I had, at hand, a wine that had all the fullness of alert texture that the Ziereisen wines similarly possessed; great activity, tension, power; and more typical characteristics: reduction, long lines of acidity, savoury and saline qualities. Naturally, I was smitten by the above Sylvaner that I sampled. Vetter seems to work in the much the same way, as is proved by the contents of the glass. Care for the vineyards, likewise, is of utmost importance to both producers.” — David … Please join us for a drink soon. Reservations preferred. Bookings and after-6.00pm access: (03) 9419 3867 Tue. 11.00 am–6.00 pm Wed.–Sat. 11.00 am–11.00 pm — If you would like any of the above, would like to come by for a private appointment, or just have some questions — please let us know.